Why should we apply cream around the eye area?

The eye contour is a sensitive area of the face that requires specific care to address all the issues it may encounter (dark circles, bags, fine lines...). Unlike conventional facial care, eye contours have undergone ophthalmological tests, as they are likely to migrate by capillarity and come into contact with the eye. Moreover, they are formulated at a neutral pH to adapt to this area. The pH of the eye contour is about 7, while it is generally between 4.7 and 5.7 on the rest of the face.

The primary function of the eye contour area is tohydrate this delicate zone. Indeed, the eyelids are very poor in sebaceous glands, which means that the hydrolipidic film in this area is practically non-existent. The eye contour is therefore barely protected from external aggressions and dehydration. To compensate for this lack, it is beneficial to apply a cream containing both hydrating/humectant active ingredients, such ashyaluronic acid or aloe vera gel, and film-forming agents such as vegetable oils or butters.

Boasting a strong hygroscopic capacity, moisturising molecules retain water within the skin, thereby limiting insensible water loss (IWL). Film-forming agents, on the other hand, recreate an equivalent of the hydrolipidic film to protect the skin from pollution, UV rays, and dehydration. It's also worth noting that hydrating the eye contour helps prevent the appearance of dehydration fine lines at the corner of the eye.

Some eye contour treatments also contain ingredients that protect the skin from the dangers of the sun. Indeed, let's remember that this area is very thin and therefore easily allows UV rays to penetrate, which are responsible for the excessive generation of free radicals. These species cause several damages to the skin and DNA, and are among other things responsible for the acceleration of skin ageing and pigmentation disorders. To protect oneself, it is good to rely on eye contour treatments with a sun protection factor (SPF) or rich in antioxidants, such as vitamin C or polyphenols. These molecules are capable of neutralising free radicals by donating an electron.

The skin around the eyes is extremely thin and delicate, with a thickness of approximately 0.5 millimetres compared to an average of 2 to 2.5 millimetres on the rest of the face. This physiological characteristic makes it prone to several concerns.

• The brown under-eye circles : often of genetic origin, brown under-eye circles can also form following excessive sun exposure. The thinness of the skin around the eyes indeed allows UV rays to easily penetrate, which can lead to hyperpigmentation issues. To reduce the appearance of pigmented under-eye circles, it is recommended to apply a cream containing lightening or depigmenting ingredients (niacinamide, etc.).

• The bluish dark circles : the thinness of the skin around the eyes reveals the slightest abnormality in microcirculation. When it slows down, due to age or fatigue, waste and blood pigments are no longer properly evacuated, which can cause vascular dark circles. It is then advisable to rely on draining and decongesting active ingredients (caffeine, etc.).

• The water-filled bags : a slowdown in lymphatic circulation can also be responsible for water retention around the eye contour, leading to the appearance of malar bags. It is then advisable to turn to ingredients with decongestant properties.

Any recommendations?

At Typology, we offer two treatments specifically designed for the eye contour area to revitalise your gaze .

• The eye serum : concentrated at 5% in caffeine, a draining active ingredient, this serum promotes blood and lymphatic microcirculation to reduce bluish dark circles and decongest eye bags. Applied morning and evening, it offers initial results after 4 weeks of use, when accompanied by a healthy lifestyle.

• Thecornflower hydrosol : obtained through distillation of cornflower blossoms from organic farming, this gentle treatment soothes the skin and decongests the eye contour.

The area around the eyes contains only a minimal amount of elastin and collagen, dermal fibres that act as support for the skin. Add to this the fact that their synthesis by fibroblasts gradually decreases from our twenties onwards. Moreover, in addition to being thin, the area around the eyes is highly utilised. It is estimated that we perform approximately 10,000 eyelid blinks per day. Finally, it is barely protected from dehydration due to the almost complete absence of the hydrolipidic film in this area, which promotes the appearance of fine lines.

These various physiological characteristics of the eye contour make it prone to loss of firmness, crow's feet wrinkles, but also to hollow dark circles and fatty bags. While skin ageing is inevitable, it is not impossible to delay it. The application of firming and tightening actives, such as retinol, bakuchiol or Q10, can slow down the appearance of wrinkles and reduce those already present.

Any recommendations?

Typology offers for this purpose a eye contour cream enriched with coenzyme Q10 (INCI: Ubiquinone) and prickly pear oil (INCI: Opuntia Ficus-Indica Fruit Extract). Q10 helps to stimulate cellular regeneration, while preventing collagen degradation and loss of skin elasticity. The prickly pear oil has firming and antioxidant properties. This cream also has a strong hydrating power. Indeed, prickly pear oil is rich in omega-6 and omega-9, allowing it to nourish the skin and strengthen its barrier function, which limits water loss.

• Thèse de Sabrina OKOMBI. Recherche et étude de molécules à activité antityrosinase et leur utilisation comme agents dépigmentants en dermocosmétique (2005).

• PUIZINA-IVIC N. Skin aging. Acta dermatovenerologica Alpina, Pannonica, et Adriatica (2008).