How does cornflower hydrosol act on puffiness and dark circles?

The cornflower (Centaurea cyanus) is a plant belonging to the Asteraceae family, native to Europe and recognisable by its intensely blue flowers. Formerly very widespread in cereal fields, it has progressively become scarce with the use of herbicides. Today, the flowers used in cosmetics come mainly from controlled cultivation, often from organic farming, in order to preserve their quality.

The cornflower hydrosol, or cornflower floral water, is obtained by steam distillation of the flowers. Unlike other aromatic plants, this process does not make it possible to isolate a usable essential oil, but only an aqueous phase, slightly enriched with water-soluble compounds. This contains, in particular, traces of aromatic molecules such as linalool or alpha-terpineol, as well as phenolic compounds, including anthocyanins. These substances give cornflower hydrosol its soothing and antioxidant properties, even though their low concentration in the hydrosol calls for caution regarding the extent of their effects.

Cornflower hydrosol is traditionally used to soothe tired eyes and to diminish visible signs around the eye contour, such as bags and dark circles. This use is partly based on its cooling effect and on the presence of compounds with soothing properties, which may help reduce sensations of discomfort in this particularly thin and well‑vascularised area. The local application of a cool liquid may also promote slight vasoconstriction, helping to temporarily reduce the swollen appearance of bags.

Regarding dark circles, the mechanisms are more complex and depend on their origin, whether vascular, pigmented or structural. Certain compounds found in cornflower, particularly polyphenols such as anthocyanins, are known for their antioxidant properties and could help to limit some of the processes involved in the development of pigmented dark circles. Nevertheless, to date, scientific data remain limited and do not allow us to assert a marked or systematic effect of cornflower hydrosol on this concern.

Some experimental work nonetheless provides interesting insights. Studies conducted by the Research and Innovation department of the L’Oréal group, reported in particular by Michel Faucon in his work Scientific and Medical Aromatherapy Treatise – Hydrolats, have evaluated the effects of an aqueous cornflower extract on pigmentation. In vitro, on human cell cultures, daily application for 10 days at high concentrations (50% and 100%) demonstrated a reduction in the amount of melanin produced by melanocytes, suggesting a potential effect on the intensity of brown dark circles. These results were then explored in a clinical study conducted in 41 women aged 35 to 59 years.

The twice-daily application of compresses soaked in 50% cornflower water, for 5 to 10 minutes over the course of one month, has been associated with a visible attenuation of dark circles and a reduction in puffiness.

However, several limitations must be highlighted: a relatively small sample size, the absence of comparison with a placebo, and specific conditions of use (a prolonged application time that is difficult to transpose to typical daily use). These results therefore suggest a potential benefit, but should be interpreted with caution.

• NGENOT L. & al. Anti-inflammatory and immunological effects of Centaurea cyanus flower-heads. Journal of Ethnopharmacology (1999).

• HU S. & al. Clinical analysis and classification of dark eye circle. International Journal of Dermatology (2013).

• FAUCON M. Traité d'aromathérapie scientifique et médicale - Les hydrolats. Sang de la Terre (2018).