Bakuchiol, a new active ingredient against skin ageing.

• The internal causes

  Age is one of the primary factors that impacts cellular functions and the structure of the skin. The production of collagen or elastin decreases, as does blood flow. This means that the skin, not receiving the necessary oxygen and proteins, loses its suppleness and sags. The youthful, rosy glow of the face then gives way to a more dull, greyish complexion.

  Genetics also plays a role in skin ageing. Thus, skin type or ethnicity influences the rate at which wrinkles and fine lines form on the face. For instance, Asian or dark skins are predisposed to uneven pigmentation (brown spots), and fair and sensitive skins to premature ageing.

• External Causes

  The exogenous factors responsible for skin ageing can all be attributed to oxidative stress. This process is due to the presence of free radicals within the body that deteriorate cellular structure. Over time, the body's ability to capture and neutralise these free radicals diminishes. This is when the components of skin cells begin to deteriorate. Even though our body naturally produces free radicals, certain external factors can stimulate this phenomenon even more: UV rays from the sun (photoageing), pollution, diet, smoking...

The bakuchiol is a recent active ingredient, first used in cosmetics in 2007. It is a phenolic meroterpene abundant in the seeds and leaves of the Psoralea corylifolia (Babchi). Also known as "Bakuchi", this plant endemic to the Himalayan region has been listed for hundreds of years in the Ayurvedic pharmacopoeia.

Several studies have identified it as a natural alternative to retinol, both being derivatives of vitamin A. Bakuchiol thus effectively combats the signs of skin ageing, minus the side effects of retinol (irritations, stability issues, photosensitivity, etc…). Those with sensitive skin who cannot tolerate retinol can therefore turn to bakuchiol. This ingredient works on several levels to prevent wrinkles or reduce those already present on the surface of the epidermis:

• Limiting the degradation of collagen and elastin.

  These two proteins are key components of the connective tissue that makes up the dermis. They strengthen the skin and increase its elasticity and firmness. Unfortunately, over time, they are degraded by enzymes known as matrix metalloproteinases (MMP), and more specifically collagenase and elastase. Topical application of bakuchiol inhibits the activity of these enzymes, preventing them from causing harm. Furthermore, researchers have demonstrated its potential to stimulate retinoid receptors responsible for the synthesis of type 1 collagen in the dermis.

• Neutralise free radicals.

  As previously explained, free radicals are highly reactive unstable molecules that degrade healthy cells and proteins in the body, accelerating its ageing. Bakuchiol neutralises these molecules, thereby blocking their harmful effects on the skin.

• Combatting pigmentation spots.

  The appearance of brown spots is linked to the ageing of the skin and/or exposure to external aggressions such as pollution and UV rays. As a reminder, hyperpigmentation is defined as a disruption in the pigmentation process : the melanin, pigment responsible for the natural colouring of the skin, is overproduced in certain areas which leads to the appearance of brown, red or pink spots that can sometimes be unsightly. Bakuchiol regulates melanocytes and reduces the intensity of pigmented spots on the skin surface.

This combination is relevant as it allows for the benefits of both compounds to be harnessed. Furthermore, a study has shown that when bakuchiol and retinol are combined, bakuchiol stabilises the retinol, thereby extending its effectiveness. The anti-inflammatory effects of bakuchiol would also enable the skin to better tolerate retinol.

Even though this combination can indeed be beneficial in combating wrinkles, we do not recommend it at all for sensitive skin. However, if your skin tolerates retinol well, during your evening routine, you can apply our evening routine, you can apply our wrinkle and imperfection serum.This serum also contains plant-based polypeptides capable of working in synergy with retinol to promote the synthesis of type I collagen.

As a reminder, unlike bakuchiol, the retinol is photosensitising: it increases the skin's sensitivity to the sun. Therefore, it should only be used in the evening, whereas bakuchiol can be applied in the morning without any risks.

• BOJANOWSKI K. & al. Bakuchiol: A retinol-like functional compound unveiled through gene expression profiling and clinically validated to possess anti-ageing properties. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2014).

• REITER P. & al. Prospective, Randomised, Double-Blind Evaluation of Topical Bakuchiol and Retinol for Facial Photoageing Clinical Trial. British Journal of Dermatology (2019).

• LEVY S. & al. Clinical Assessment of a Natural Bakuchiol Anti-Ageing Moisturiser for Sensitive Skin. The Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (2020).