Dark circles: how does niacinamide work?

Also known as nicotinamide, niacinamide is a water-soluble compound derived from vitamin B3. Essential to the body, it contributes to energy transfer in cells by participating in the synthesis of coenzymes NADP and NAD. When applied topically, it offers numerous benefits, suitable for all skin types.

• Anti-inflammatory : it assists in reducing redness and itching, and soothes the skin. This active ingredient is particularly favoured by skin prone to acne or atopic conditions.

• Antioxidant : Niacinamide aids in slowing down skin ageing. Its ability to neutralise free radicals provides skin cells with protection against oxidative stress.

• Hydrating : several studies have shown that niacinamide contributes to the maintenance of the hydrolipidic film of the skin and to the reduction of transepidermal water loss, which allows the stratum corneum to maintain a good level of hydration.

• Relipidating : This vitamin notably stimulates the synthesis of ceramides, lipids naturally present in the skin and contributing to the formation of the skin's protective barrier. The use of niacinamide thus helps to prevent the first signs of skin ageing, and to reduce wrinkles and fine lines.

Please note : if brown circles are of genetic origin, it is impossible to diminish them.

When used in eye contour care, niacinamide can diminish the appearance of brown under-eye circles over time and "refresh the gaze". It acts on these through a reduction in their pigmentation. Several studies have proven that niacinamide has an inhibitory effect on the transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes. The primary role of melanocytes is to protect the skin from the harmful effects of UV rays, which explains why the skin tans in the sun. However, due to its thinness, the skin around the eyes may tend to show this pigmentation excessively, leading to the appearance of dark circles.

A study conducted on a hundred individuals notably demonstrated that the topical application of a cream containing 5% niacinamide twice daily helped to reduce signs of hyperpigmentation after four weeks of application.

Furthermore, the lipid-replenishing power of niacinamide enables it to strengthen the skin barrier, and thus the skin's protection against external aggressions. This property is particularly interesting for the delicate and thin area that is the eye contour. The application of niacinamide can thus minimise the impact of UV rays on the skin, even though it does not replace the use of SPF protection.

However, it is important to highlight that the various tests conducted in the studies were not specifically carried out on the eye contour area, but on hyperpigmentation marks present on the face. Therefore, the anti-dark circle effect of niacinamide has not been directly demonstrated.