What are the benefits of caffeine against dark circles and bags under the eyes?

The skin around the eyes is an area lacking in numerous collagen fibres and contains less subcutaneous adipose tissue compared to the rest of the body. As such, it is extremely thin to the point of easily allowing blood capillaries to show through the skin, making it more susceptible to swelling and pigmentation. However, one ingredient appears to minimise the appearance of these skin issues, which are deemed unattractive, though harmless.

It is common to see the caffeine in skincare products, particularly in serums and creams for the under-eye area. Better than a cold water compress, they claim to help brighten the delicate skin around the eyes and reduce under-eye puffiness. Small studies suggest that the topical application of caffeine-infused skincare formulas is effective in addressing under-eye issues such as dark circles and bags.

In 2010, a single-centre clinical study was conducted involving 53 volunteers exhibiting periocular wrinkles and fine lines, dark circles, and under-eye bags, at a mild to moderate stage. The aim of this study is to evaluate the effectiveness in vivo of an eye contour cream composed of 4% blueberry extract, 5% β-C-xyloside, and 0.2% caffeine. After 12 weeks of product use, the subjects who received the eye contour cream, applied twice daily in the morning and evening, observed an improvement in the appearance of dark circles and bags, as well as a reduction in the depth of wrinkles and fine lines.

Similarly, another single-blind, randomised, placebo-controlled clinical trial evaluated the efficacy of an eye patch composed of 3% caffeine and 1% vitamin K in an emulsified emu oil base on 11 women. The study revealed a reduction in the appearance of dark circles around the eyes in 100% of the subjects, four weeks after the application of the active patches, compared to the baseline state observed for each volunteer.

Indeed, in a randomised, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial, BOONME and his team compared the impact of a 3% caffeine topical gel and a base gel on reducing eye bags in 34 volunteers. A non-significant difference was observed between the efficacy of the caffeine gel and the base gel in reducing tissue swelling around the eyes, as only 23.5% of the volunteers, or 8 out of 34 subjects, responded to the activity of the caffeine. The results observed are thus linked to the cooling effect of the hydrophilic gel, rather than the vasoconstrictor effect of caffeine.

Although it is widely used, the current results on the effect of caffeine on dark circles and bags under the eyes are weak and contradictory, not to mention the small sample size on which the studies were conducted. Additional data is needed to validate these initial findings.

Caffeine: what happens at the level of the eye contour?

The caffeine has vasoconstrictive properties. It is believed to improve blood flow in the eye area, thereby reducing the amount of blood that can accumulate under the eyes, by decreasing the diameter of the blood capillaries. By minimising fluid build-up around the eyes, this action of caffeine could help to lessen the dark appearance of circles and the puffy look of bags under the eyes.

If you have bags or dark circles under your eyes due to genetics, caffeine will not help you. Similarly, age also plays a role in the appearance of dark circles and bags under the eyes.

Thus, it would seem that the key to reducing the appearance of dark circles and bags under the eyes is to opt for an eye care product containing caffeine. This is why it has been incorporated into the formulation of a significant number of eye products. However, to combat tired eyes, topical formulations should contain between 2 and 5% caffeine, and should be used in a consistent and regular manner.

The method of application is also crucial. Given the delicate nature of the area, it is essential to be gentle. Indeed, rubbing the eyes can exacerbate their tired appearance. Following the natural curve of the cheekbone and the brow bone, apply the formula under your eyes both morning and evening, and carefully tap the product until it is absorbed.

In our usage test on our eye serum, 68% of a group of 22 women reported a more uniform eye contour after 42 weeks of use.