Hydrafacial: what you need to know about this cleansing and hydrating treatment for the face and body.

The Hydrafacial treatment, also known as hydradermabrasion, is an aesthetic technique for the face, neck, upper chest, back, hands and legs. This patented nutrient-infused technology is designed to restore the skin’s radiance. The treatment can help if you have expression lines or fine wrinkles. It can support firmness or elasticity concerns. It is suitable for uneven tone or skin texture issues. The Hydrafacial treatment improves hyperpigmentation, enlarged pores, blackheads and excess sebum. It provides a thorough cleanse, exfoliates, removes impurities and hydrates skin.

The treatment Hydrafacial can be performed alone or alongside another spa treatment. It begins with a skin assessment that evaluates skin condition: pigmentation spots, wrinkles, sensitivity or dehydration. With specific effects on tone evenness, radiance, blemishes and hydration, the Hydrafacial adapts to all skin types. The protocol is customisable: the peel concentration, the choice of active ingredients and tips are adjusted to specific skin needs. For combination to oily skin, it unclogs pores. For mature skin, it helps smooth wrinkles and fine lines while firming the facial contour. Sensitive and dry skin receive deep hydration, while skin prone to imperfections regain radiance and a smoother texture. This complete non-invasive treatment leaves skin clearer, brighter and revitalised. It is contraindicated in pregnant people and in those with skin lesions or highly reactive skin.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology and conducted on 20 volunteers aged 34 to 56 aimed to validate the efficacy and safety of hydradermabrasion. Participants were divided into two groups (A and B). Group A underwent six hydradermabrasion sessions using a polyphenolic antioxidant serum. Sessions were spaced seven to ten days apart. Group B received the same antioxidant serum over six sessions spaced seven to ten days apart but without hydradermabrasion and with manual application. Digital photographs, skin biopsies, and skin polyphenolic antioxidant levels were recorded before and after treatment.

Results indicate that in group A, treatment increased the thickness of the epidermis, papillary dermis, and fibroblasts. The increase in papillary dermis thickness and fibroblast density suggests a heightened collagen and elastin production, key components of skin firmness and elasticity. A significant rise in polyphenolic antioxidant levels (P < 0.01) was observed, reflecting the skin’s improved ability to neutralise free radicals, the primary drivers of premature ageing. Dermal tissue was renewed with denser collagen and fibroblast structures. Clinically, fine lines, pore size, and hyperpigmentation decreased without reported complications. In contrast, group B showed no structural, biochemical, or clinical skin changes.

The Hydrafacial treatment lasts between 30 and 60 minutes, depending on the protocol used and the skin’s specific needs. It follows four key steps, which may differ between clinics but aim to: cleanse, purify, hydrate and regenerate the skin.

• Skin cleansing and exfoliation.

  The first step prepares the skin by removing surface impurities, cosmetic residue, excess sebum, and dead cells that accumulate. By cleansing, the skin is ready for subsequent treatments. This step also promotes cell turnover.

• Light peel.

  This step relies on the application of a blend of exfoliating acids (usually glycolic acid and salicylic acid). The objective is to unclog the pores deeply without causing irritation. Glycolic acid acts on the surface to remove dead cells, while salicylic acid penetrates pores to dissolve sebum and prevent comedone formation. This combination allows effective chemical exfoliation and eases the extraction of residual impurities.

• Extraction.

  This step uses controlled vacuum suction technology to remove comedones, blackheads, sebum, and cellular debris. Unlike painful manual extractions, the method is painless and non-traumatic for the skin. It reduces skin congestion, improves skin clarity, and minimises the appearance of pores.

• Hydration.

  The final step nourishes and protects the skin. Concentrated serums of antioxidants, peptides, hyaluronic acid, and other targeted actives are infused into the skin. These ingredients restore the skin barrier and stimulate the production of collagen and reinforce hydration. The treatment usually ends with an LED phototherapy session, which, depending on the colour used, red to address signs of ageing, blue for acne, enhances the treatment effect by calming inflammation and stimulating blood flow.

Although the Hydrafacial treatment, or hydradermabrasion, is recognised for its gentleness and compatibility with most skin types, certain contraindications must be considered. It is notably not recommended for pregnant or breastfeeding women, as a precaution because of active ingredients used in the treatment, such as exfoliating acids. This treatment should also be avoided in cases of active skin infections, such as herpes, inflammation, open wounds, flare-ups of eczema or psoriasis, and in individuals with autoimmune diseases affecting the skin, such as lupus. The skin is often irritated, inflamed, or fragile in these conditions. Patients who have had isotretinoin treatment in the past six to 12 months should also refrain. The skin is sensitive and prone to irritation.

Furthermore, highly sensitive or reactive skin requires prior assessment to adapt the protocol, as do individuals who have recently undergone aesthetic procedures such as injections, a chemical peel, or a laser treatment. Finally, topical retinoids should be discontinued several days before the session. If in doubt, a skin assessment by a professional will confirm the absence of contraindications and ensure an appropriate and safe treatment.

• FREEDMAN B.M. & al. Hydradermabrasion: an innovative modality for nonablative facial rejuvenation. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology ( 2008).

• KARNIK J. & al. Efficacy and Tolerability of HydraFacial Clarifying Treatment Series in the Treatment of Active Acne Vulgaris. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology (2022).

• RAO B. & al. Hydradermabrasion through the lens of Line‐Field Confocal Optical Coherence Tomography. Skin Research and Technology (2024).

• MAKINO E. & al. Efficacy and tolerability of a novel cosmetic growth factor serum when used as part of biweekly diamond tip hydradermabrasion treatments on facial skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2024).