How does prickly pear seed oil benefit the skin?

The principal benefit of prickly pear seed oil lies in its ability to support the skin’s barrier function. Rich in fatty acids—especially linoleic acid—it enhances cohesion among corneocytes in the stratum corneum and reduces skin dehydration. In fact, linoleic acid is an omega-6 fatty acid with a strong affinity for the lipid intercellular cement of the stratum corneum. It can insert itself into this matrix, reinforcing its solidity and thus preventing water evaporation.

A significant proportion of oleic acid is found in prickly pear seed oil, an unsaturated fatty acid with film-forming properties. More precisely, oleic acid enables the oil to form a protective veil on the surface of the epidermis, similar to the naturally occurring hydrolipid film but which can be impaired, for example in dry skin or due to external aggressions (UV rays, extreme cold...). As a result, prickly pear seed oil limits transepidermal water loss and helps to protect the skin.

Regular use of prickly pear (Opuntia ficus-indica) seed oil is particularly beneficial for dry skin, which is often prone to a sensation of tightness.

Prickly pear seed oil is often credited with the ability to preserve skin firmness due to its abundance of antioxidants, particularly vitamin E and phytosterols. These compounds act by neutralising free radicals generated by UV radiation, pollution or the intrinsic oxidative stress associated with skin ageing. Oxidative stress is known to degrade the collagen and elastin, two proteins of the dermal extracellular matrix that contribute to maintaining skin structure. By limiting the oxidation of cellular membranes and epidermal lipids, prickly pear seed oil may help prevent skin laxity. Moreover, thanks to its nourishing properties detailed above, it protects the skin from external aggressions and dehydration, thereby enhancing its resilience and suppleness.

These antioxidant properties of prickly pear seed oil have been confirmed by experimental data. A study in vivo conducted on 36 rats divided into six groups evaluated the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory potential of several vegetable oils, including prickly pear seed oil. The distribution of the rats and the protocol employed are presented in the table below.

The activity of the antioxidant enzymes superoxide dismutase (SOD), catalase (CAT) and glutathione peroxidase (GPx) was subsequently evaluated histochemically. While group 2 displayed a marked reduction in this activity as a consequence of inflammation, the rats in group 6, treated with prickly pear oil, showed enzyme levels similar to those of group 1, the control group. This vegetable oil therefore appears to be able to limit oxidative damage in skin tissues. By reducing oxidative degradation, it could thus preserve collagen and elastin fibres, contributing to maintaining firmer, more toned skin.

The aforementioned study did not confine itself to assessing the antioxidant properties of prickly pear seed oil: it also explored its effects on inflammation. After injecting a 1% carrageenan solution into the rats’ paws to induce inflammation, the oedema progression was measured at regular intervals over five hours. The results showed that a topical treatment with prickly pear seed oil (25 µL per paw) resulted in a significant reduction in oedema thickness, exceeding that achieved by the reference drug (Inflocine), used for comparison.

Blood analysis confirmed this anti-inflammatory effect. Rats treated with Barbary fig oil showed a reduction in white blood cells and platelets, parameters often elevated during inflammation, as well as a marked decrease in inflammatory biomarkers such as C-reactive protein (CRP) and fibrinogen. Although these values did not reach those of the control group, they were significantly lower than in untreated rats. These results indicate that Barbary fig oil may help to limit cutaneous inflammatory responses by reducing white blood cell recruitment and pro-inflammatory mediator production. However, further studies in humans are still required.

The healing of the skin is a complex process involving epidermal repair, collagen synthesis and the restoration of the cutaneous barrier. Although it cannot replace a dermatological treatment, prickly pear seed oil may be of interest to support this process. An experimental study conducted on 30 rats assessed the efficacy of various oils, including that of prickly pear, on superficial burns induced by fractional CO₂ laser. The rats were divided into five groups: a control group (saline solution), a reference group (a healing cream) and three groups treated with plant-derived oils (pumpkin, linseed and prickly pear), applied daily to the wounds for seven days. The researchers evaluated several criteria: overall wound appearance, crust formation, macroscopic healing, histological analysis and collagen content.

The results show that prickly pear seed oil significantly reduced healing time, with the wound area decreasing to 0 cm² by day 7, compared with 1.49 cm² in the control group and 0.85 cm² in the reference group. Histological analysis confirmed the benefits of this plant oil, with a higher collagen content (270.67 ± 7.48 mg/g tissue) than in the other groups (109.33 ± 9.98 mg/g tissue in the control group and 124.02 ± 7.48 mg/g tissue in the reference group). This efficacy is partly attributed to the presence of β-sitosterol in the oil, recognised for its angiogenic activity: it stimulates the expression of factors related to the formation of new blood vessels (VEGF, von Willebrand factor), thereby promoting better oxygenation of regenerating tissues.

By supporting collagen production and improving vascularisation, prickly pear seed oil could be beneficial for damaged skin, for example during a flare-up of eczema. These results, however, remain to be confirmed through clinical trials in humans.

• SAHNOUN Z. & al. The effect of natural extracts on laser burn wound healing. Journal of Surgical Research (2016).

• SAHNOUN Z. & al. The effect of prickly pear, pumpkin, and linseed oils on biological mediators of acute inflammation and oxidative stress markers. BioMed Research International (2020).

• APREA E. & al. Prickly pear seed oil extraction, chemical characterization and potential health benefits. Molecules (2021).

• HARRAK H. & al. Comparative assessment of physical and chemical characteristics of prickly pear seed oil from Opuntia ficus-indica and Opuntia megacantha varieties. Journal of Food Quality (2021).

• LEYENDECKER B. A. Prickly pear seed oil and the skin. The School for Aromatic Studies (2025).