Skin Hyperpigmentation: How to Fade it?

Thehyperpigmentation is the dermatological term used to describe the persistent spots that appear on the skin's surface. This phenomenon occurs due to a disruption in the pigmentation process: melanin, the pigment responsible for the skin's natural colouration, is overproduced in certain areas. The spots that then appear vary in size and affect the uniformity of the complexion. They can cause some discomfort in the daily lives of those affected.

Hyperpigmentation affects all skin tones, but it is more common and noticeable in individuals with darker skin. Hyperpigmentation spots can be categorised into three types:

• The melasma : It can be caused by hormonal imbalances and often appears during pregnancy (this is then referred to as the mask of pregnancy). The pigmentation spots usually fade within a few weeks after childbirth.

• The lentigo : Also known as liver spots or sun spots, its occurrence is linked to excessive and repeated sun exposure. These spots are usually found on exposed areas, such as the hands and face.

• Thepost-inflammatory hyperpigmentation : This results from an overproduction of melanin following inflammation (injuries, burns, blemishes, acne flare-ups).

Please note : The use of certain perfumes and the intake of certain medications, such as oral contraceptives, antimalarial drugs, and imipramines, can also be causes of hyperpigmentation.

To completely eliminate these irregularities, aesthetic medicine is often effective. However, there are less invasive and gentler methods to significantly reduce their appearance:

• Use treatments containing anti-spot active ingredients.

  Among the compounds recognised for their brightening activity, we particularly note theazelaic acid, thearbutin acid (or alpha-arbutin), theliquorice extract (INCI: Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract), retinoids, theferulic acid, the niacinamide or even the vitamin C.

  If your spots resemble marks ofpost-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, then the serum anti-marks PHA 14% + centella asiatica will be your best ally. Indeed, this treatment is designed to improve the appearance of shallow, closed superficial scars through the resurfacing and depigmenting action of PHA combined with the regenerative action of centella asiatica. It also contains anextract of liquorice which reduces the hyperpigmentation of post-acne marks. Apply a drop locally to the affected areas, in the evening only.

  If your spots are primarily due to melasma or lentigo, every day, morning and evening, apply to clean, dry skin our hyperpigmentation serum with 2% alpha arbutin and lemon extract (INCI: Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Water). We recommend using this serum daily, morning and evening, for a minimum duration of 6 weeks in order to observe its effects on the reduction of your pigmentation spots.

  Vitamin C is also a potent multifunctional antioxidant and a brightening agent that helps protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals. Thus, during your morning and/or evening beauty routine, you can apply several treatments enriched with vitamin C. On clean, dry skin, after cleansing, first apply the brightening toner with vitamin C, which also contains lemon verbena water (INCI: Lippia Citriodora Leaf Water) for a slight fruity scent. Concentrated in active ingredients to regulate the skin's pH, brighten the complexion and reduce the appearance of pigmentation spots, this toner is applied with a cotton pad over the entire face, avoiding the eye contour, and does not need to be rinsed off. You can then use the radiance face serum highly concentrated in vitamin C (11%). This treatment also contains 3% of extract of Albizia julibrissin (INCI: Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract ). This Asian-origin plant revitalises the skin. Together, these ingredients help slow down photo-ageing and prevent the appearance of brown spots. Moreover, in the morning, if you wish to even out your complexion for the day, our tinted serum is also enriched with vitamin C and provides light coverage and a natural finish to the skin.

• Exfoliate your skin daily with A.H.A. (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) or B.H.A. (Beta Hydroxy Acids).

  These molecules eliminate keratinocytes by breaking ionic bonds, thereby destabilising the stratum corneum and causing its gradual detachment. The most common AHAs are glycolic acid and 'lactic acid. Glycolic acid, being smaller in size than lactic acid, penetrates deeper into the epidermis, hence its greater potential for irritation. For this reason, chemical peels based on lactic acid are recommended for the most sensitive skin types. Thus, depending on your skin's reactivity, you can use the gentle peeling serum Lactic Acid 10% + Acerola extract or the exfoliating serum Glycolic Acid 10%. Without rinsing, these treatments stimulate cellular renewal.

  The most common B.H.A. in cosmetics is thesalicylic acid. Its antibacterial properties make it an active ingredient of choice for the chemical exfoliation of combination to oily skin with imperfections. After your skin cleansing, to rebalance the skin pH, you can thus use our purifying toner with 1% salicylic acid.

• Exfoliate one's face and body with suitable skincare treatments.

  Mechanical exfoliation also allows for the removal of dead cells laden with melanin. Unlike the chemical exfoliation mentioned earlier, exfoliation is carried out on a weekly basis to avoid damaging the hydrolipidic film. For the face, we recommend the brightening scrub. This melting gel with micro-grains of apricot kernels, unclogs the pores and promotes cellular renewal, for smooth skin, an even and luminous complexion. For the body, opt for the nourishing scrub, particularly suitable for dry and uncomfortable skin.

Please note : Theprimary solution to combat skin hyperpigmentation is prevention. To avoid the appearance of lentigo-type pigmented spots, it is essential to protect oneself from the sun's UV rays with a sun protection suitable for one's skin tone. Ourface sun creamsoffer an SPF30 and an SPF50. These protective treatments are enriched withaloe vera,karanja oilandhyaluronic acidderived from fermented wheat. The clever blend of these three components prevents photoaging while maintaining skin hydration.

• GAO J. & al. The application of botanical extracts as topical skin-lightening agents for the enhancement of skin pigmentation disorders. Journal of Investigative Dermatology Symposium Proceedings (2008).

• CHANG T. S. An updated review of tyrosinase inhibitors. International Journal of Molecular Sciences (2009).

• SARKAR R. & al. Cosmeceuticals for Hyperpigmentation: What is Available?Journal of Cutaneous and Aesthetic Surgery(2013).