Commonly known as: Ascorbic acid, Vitamin C.
I.N.C.I. list name: Ascorbic Acid, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tetrahexyldecyl
Extraction process: Synthesis from D-glucose by the Reichstein-Grüssner process, combining chemical steps and a microbiological step.
Source: Synthetic.
Botanical name: /
Family: /
Extracted part of the plant: /
Origin, provenance: France.
Chemical properties: Soluble in any aqueous medium; pH < 3.5 (ascorbic acid); pH: 9.0 - 10.0 (stable derivatives of vitamin C) Sparingly soluble in alcohol and polyols; Insoluble in ether and chloroform.
Properties: Emulsion, colloidal solution, true aqueous solution, balm, solid soap, suspension.
Required dosage in cosmetic products: At least 0.2%; Optimal concentration between 5 and 20%; Maximum concentration not regulated.
Function: Antioxidant, pH regulator, masking agent, skin care agent.
Specificities: Antioxidant, lightening, depigmenting, regenerating, unifying, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, restoring.
Benefits: All skin types, especially dull, pigmented, mature skin prone to imperfections; All hair types, especially dull hair.
Antibacterial: Reduce the appearance of imperfections (pimples, etc.) by inhibiting the proliferation of bacteria;
Anti-inflammatory: Prevents and reduces redness by inhibiting NF-kB, a transcription factor involved in the immune response and responsible for the activation of a number of pro-inflammatory cytokines;
Antioxidant: Protects intracellular structures from oxidative stress by neutralizing free radicals in the aqueous compartments of the cell by giving up an electron to make them stable and less reactive. In addition, it plays a role in the regeneration of vitamin E, another antioxidant;
Depigmenting, lightening, unifying: Reduces the visibility of brown spots by inhibiting tyrosinase, an enzyme essential in the synthesis of melanin, then interrupting melanogenesis;
Regenerating: Improves the appearance and rigidity of the skin by having the ability to trigger the differentiation of keratinocytes;
Restorative: Provides firmness and suppleness to the skin in order to slow the appearance of signs of aging by stimulating dermal fibroblasts to intensify collagen production, in addition to promoting the synthesis of hydroxyproline, an essential component for the formation of collagen fibers.
Face care (serums, cleansing balms, face creams, tonic lotions, masks, eye care);
Body care (hand and foot creams, soaps, body milks, after-sun gel);
Hair care (shampoos, hair lotions, hair creams);
Make-up (BB creams, CC creams, tinted serums, illuminating concentrates).
Store at a temperature below +25°C away from light, moisture and heat.
There are no adverse reactions to the use of a vitamin C-based skin care product. On the other hand, it is not recommended to apply this acid on your epidermis if you have a wound in the course of healing to avoid the risks of irritation.
Pure vitamin C must be kept at an acidic pH of around 3.5 in order to avoid oxidation problems. Reducing the pH of a skin care formula can lead to skin sensitivity.