5 steps to care for combination skin.

First step in any skincare routine, the facial cleansing is just as fundamental for combination skin as it is for other skin types. However, it can be quite challenging for combination skin, which has areas of increased sebum production, typically on the forehead, nose and chin (T-zone), and others, such as the cheeks, which tend to be normal to dry. The aim of cleansing is therefore to rid the skin of impurities and excess sebum in the oily areas, without irritating or drying out the drier areas.

To that end, we recommend opting for a gentle cleanser, ideally a cleansing gel, a product with a light, fluid texture capable of effectively removing impurities without leaving a greasy residue on the skin. We also recommend favouring products free of sulphated surfactants, which can be too harsh and dry out areas where sebum synthesis is limited while causing an overproduction of sebum in the T-zone, a phenomenon known as reactive hypersseborrhoea.

Combination skin requires daily cleansing morning and evening.

Note : In winter, as temperatures drop, the skin becomes drier and tends to produce less sebum, as demonstrated in a recent study involving 46 volunteers. In this context, using a cleanser both morning and evening may be excessive. You can then simply use a toner or hydrosol in the morning.

Hydration is an important step in the skincare routine for combination skin as it helps maintain the suppleness and comfort of dry areas while balancing those that are oilier. Contrary to a common misconception, the combination skin should not be deprived of hydration on the grounds that certain areas produce more sebum. On the contrary, appropriate hydration helps regulate this excessive sebum production, preventing the skin from compensating through increased lipid secretion. However, it is recommended to use light, non-comedogenic moisturisers, with a fluid texture, or even in the form of gel-creams.

In terms of actives, we recommend favouring hydrating ingredients capable of retaining water within the epidermis, such as hyaluronic acid or glycerine, which ensure long-lasting hydration without weighing the skin down. Soothing extracts, such as aloe vera or chamomile, can also be beneficial in calming areas prone to irritation or sensitivity. Finally, for oilier areas, the incorporation of mattifying actives, such as niacinamide, which can also strengthen the skin barrier, can help limit shine.

Caring for combination skin also involves regular exfoliation. This weekly routine allows you to refine skin texture and prevent pore blockage, particularly in the T-zone, which is prone to excess sebum. By removing dead skin cells from the surface, exfoliation avoids their build-up, which can encourage the formation of comedones. Exfoliating the skin, whether combination or not, also contributes to the penetration of serums and other care products applied subsequently. To this end, you can opt for a granular scrub or one containing chemical exfoliants, such as alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs).

In order to avoid disrupting the skin barrier function, we recommend no more than two exfoliations per week.

Tip If your skin is combination and sensitive, it may be beneficial to use an exfoliant based on gluconolactone. Due to its high molecular weight, the action of this polyhydroxy acid (PHA) remains confined to the surface of the stratum corneum, providing the skin with a gentle exfoliation.

Sun protection is an essential step in any skincare routine, and combination skin is no exception. Indeed, UV rays can exacerbate skin imbalances by stimulating sebum production in the T-zone, while weakening the dry areas that already lack hydration. Unprotected exposure also promotes the premature ageing of the skin and can lead to wrinkles or early pigmentation spots. For combination skin, the challenge is to choose a sun protection suitable that combines efficacy with lightness. Fluid, non-greasy and of course non-comedogenic formulas are particularly recommended to prevent pore blockage and avoid leaving a sticky film on the skin’s surface, which is especially unpleasant in the T-zone.

It is recommended to apply sunscreen every day, even in the absence of sunlight or during indoor activities, because the UV rays can penetrate windows.

Combination skin may require a differentiated approach to meet the specific needs of each area. Indeed, the T-zone is generally oilier than the cheeks, so applying a single product to the entire face can be insufficient, even counterproductive. For a more tailored skincare routine, it may be beneficial to use different treatments depending on the area. For example, on the T-zone, a lightweight moisturiser with purifying and mattifying properties will be ideal for controlling shine. On the cheeks, however, the skin may require richer hydration. In that case, opting for a nourishing cream formulated for normal to dry skin, which delivers comfort and protection, is advisable.

This zoning logic can also be applied to masks. In the T-zone, a purifying clay- or charcoal-based mask will help absorb excess sebum and unclog pores. In the drier areas, a hydrating mask containing plant oils or squalane will nourish and restore the skin’s barrier. This may be more challenging with cleansers because during rinsing, the products tend to spread over the entire face. However, if you already apply this logic with your moisturisers, masks and exfoliants, you will already be providing a genuine benefit to your combination skin.

Even though it demands more time and rigour on your part, tailoring your skincare routine to the specific zones of your face can be particularly beneficial for combination skin.

• YOUN S. W. & al. Regional and seasonal variations in facial sebum secretions: A proposal for the definition of combination skin type. Skin Research and Technology (2005).

• MAIBACH H. I. & al. Oily skin: An overview. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology (2012).