Licorice extract, an active ingredient for hyperpigmented skin.

The glabridin contained at over 95% in liquorice extract operates at several levels to regulate the phenomenon of hyperpigmentation:

• It restricts the activity of tyrosinase.

  As a reminder, tyrosinase is the primary enzyme that stimulates the formation of melanin. It plays a role at various stages of the melanogenesis process, such as during the very first step which involves the conversion of tyrosine into dopamine. It has been proven that at equal concentrations, liquorice extract is more effective than kojic acid at inhibiting the action of tyrosinase.

• It significantly reduces the amount of endothelin-1
  released by keratinocytes after UV exposure.

  Endothelin-1 is a mediator involved in the pigmentation process. It is produced by keratinocytes following exposure to UV light. It stimulates the proliferation and migration of melanocytes.

• It inhibits the activity of phospholipase A2 (PLA2).

  PLA2 is an enzyme released by epidermal keratinocytes following UV exposure or during inflammation. It stimulates tyrosinase activity and thus melanogenesis.

Note : At Typology, we use "Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract". Over 95% rich in glabridin, it reduces the production of melanin, hence its anti-spot properties and its presence in our anti-mark serum. However, from liquorice, it is also possible to extract glycyrrhetinic acid (INCI name: Glycyrrhetinic Acid). This compound has contradictory properties compared to the "Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract". Indeed, it is classified as pro-melanin, meaning it stimulates melanogenesis, the process responsible for tanning. It is therefore often found in self-tanning products.