Profile: Azelaic Acid
Commonly known as: Azelaic acid, 1,7-heptanedicarboxylic acid.
I.N.C.I. list name: Azelaic Acid.
Extraction process: Oxidation synthesis of oleic acid present in date palm vegetable oil, followed by a purification stage.
Source: Plant-based.
Botanical name: Phoenix dactylifera L. (Date Palm).
Family: Arecaceae.
Extracted part of the plant: Seeds.
Origin, provenance: Taiwan.
Chemical properties: A saturated dicarboxylic acid with 9 carbon atoms; Soluble in alcohol; Very slightly soluble in water; Molecular weight: 188.22 g/mol; Density: 1.03 g/cm3.
Properties: Emulsion, colloidal solution.
Required dosage in cosmetic products: Ranges between 3 and 20%.
Function: pH regulator, masking agent.
Specificities: Antibacterial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, soothing, depigmenting, keratolytic, sebum-regulating.
Benefits: All skin types, especially those prone to acne, those with pigmentation spots, oily skins and skins susceptible to redness.
Details
Properties
Antibacterial: Fighting against a variety of microorganisms, such as the bacterium Propionibacterium acnes which leads to acne;
Anti-inflammatory: Alleviating inflammatory reactions and reducing redness by inhibiting the expression of pro-inflammatory molecules (TNF-α, IL-1β, IL-6);
Depigmenting: Evening out the complexion by inhibiting tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in the process of melanogenesis;
Keratolytic: Reducing the thickness of the outer layers of dead cells by modulating the differentiation of keratinocytes;
Sebum Regulator: Reducing skin shine by normalising the functional activity of the sebaceous glands through the inhibition of 5 α-reductase activity, an enzyme responsible for the conversion of testosterone into dihydrotestosterone, which is capable of regulating sebum synthesis.
Applications
Facial Care (purifying cleansing gels, serums, moisturising creams/gels/foams).
Means of Preservation
Store in a dry place at room temperature, away from direct contact with light, heat and moisture
Contraindications, Usage Precautions
Compatible and well tolerated by all skin types, azelaic acid does not pose any risks to human health. However, it is still possible to experience some side effects (warmth, itching, redness, skin dryness, etc.) during the first use, which remain mild and infrequent.
Therefore, as a precautionary measure, it is recommended toperform a skin test before using any azelaic acid skincare product to observe potential adverse effects.
Due to its gentle nature, azelaic acid can be used safely in pregnant or breastfeeding women. However, we still advise discussing this with your doctor. On the other hand, its use is to be avoided in children due to the lack of concrete studies on these subjects.
Contrary to what its name might suggest, azelaic acid is not a photosensitising agent. Therefore, it can be applied in the morning and/or evening.
