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Karanja Vegetable Oil
Commonly known as:
Pongamia Glabra Seed Oil (I.N.C.I.), Karanj, Pongolote tree, Indian Beech, Pongamia, Punjam, Pongamia pinnata, Millettia pinnata, Derris indica.
Botanical name:
Pongamia glabra.
Extraction process:
First cold pressing followed by purification through refining.
Family:
Leguminosae.
Part of the plant extracted:
Seeds.
Location:
Primarily in India, but also in Southeast Asia, Australia, and the United States.
Flowering:
Twice a year: in the spring, from April to May, and in the autumn, from September to November.
Provenance, origin:
States of Maharashtra and Madhya Pradesh (India).
Phytochemical composition:
Polyunsaturated fatty acids (linoleic acid, alpha-linolenic acid); monounsaturated fatty acids (oleic acid); saturated fatty acids (palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid); flavonoids (pongamol, karanjin).
Sensorial properties:
Appearance: Oily liquid; Colour: Yellow to light brown; Scent: Subtle note of nuts; Feel: Greasy.
Physical characteristics:
Density: 0.910 - 0.940; Comedogenicity Index: 2; Saponification Index: 183; Oxidative Potential: Stable.
Benefits:
Antioxidant, emollient, purifying, anti-inflammatory, softening, hydrating, regenerating, nourishing, protective, anti-bacterial.
Concerns:
All skin types, particularly sensitive, blemished, mature, and exposed skin; all hair types, especially hair exposed to the sun, dry, damaged/brittle, coloured and bleached; recommended as a preventive treatment against photoaging.
Details
Applications
Facial Care (serums, sun creams, day creams);
Body Care (tanning oils, after-sun care, solid soaps);
Haircare (oils, balms, shampoos, masks);
Makeups (BB creams, CC creams).
Method of Preservation
The vegetable oil of Karanja is not highly susceptible to oxidation. It should be stored in a cool place, shielded from light and heat.
Contraindications, Usage Precautions
Karanja oil is highly concentrated with active molecules, hence it is not recommended to use it in its pure form. Even though karanja oil is known for its UV absorption properties, the ANSM emphasises that it is not a sun filter. Indeed, it is not listed by the European Cosmetic Regulation as a UV filter. Therefore, it cannot be used as such in cosmetic products and cannot replace a sunscreen.
Find out more
The karanja is a tree that typically grows to a height of 15 to 25 metres and produces fruits, each containing one to two white kernels encased in a red skin (approximately 20,000 seeds per tree). The oil of the karanja is derived from pressing these kernels, and it is non-edible. Historically, various parts of the plant were traditionally used as a remedy in the treatment of skin diseases, abscesses, ulcers, rheumatic pains, diarrhoea, diabetes, and so forth. Rich in pongamol and karanjin, karanja vegetable oil is considered an anti-UV ingredient. Moreover, the chemical structure of pongamol is very similar to that of avobenzone, an anti-UVA agent. These constituents thus have the ability to absorb UVA and UVA rays. However, it is crucial to clarify that it cannot replace sunscreen and is not recognised by the European Cosmetic Regulation as a sun filter.
