What Is “Glycyrrhiza glabra Root Extract” and What Is Its Use?

Licorice is a perennial plant of the Fabaceae family with aromatic roots. It is native to southern Europe and Asia, and grows today in different regions of the world (Mediterranean, southern United States, Middle East, North Africa, Mauritius).

To obtain the licorice plant extract referenced under the I.N.C.I. name "Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract", the dried licorice roots undergo an ethanol extraction followed by a purification step, a re-extraction with ethyl acetate and finally drying under vacuum. The compound obtained contains mainly glycyrrhizic acid (Glycyrrhizin) with recognized anti-inflammatory properties, as well as flavonoids and isoflavonoids (glabrene and isoliquiritigenin), capable of inhibiting tyrosinase involved in melanin synthesis.

Thanks to its biochemical composition, licorice extract brings several benefits in cutaneous application:

• Fight against hyperpigmentation

  As a reminder, hyperpigmentation is a disturbance in the melanogenesis process. Melanin, the pigment responsible for the natural coloring of the skin, is overproduced in certain areas, which leads to the appearance of brown, red or pink spots that are sometimes unsightly. These are of varying sizes and impact the uniformity of the complexion. Licorice extract is often compared to hydroquinone because of its pigment regulating properties. It offers the advantage of being more gentle and better tolerated by the skin than hydroquinone, which has been prohibited in all cosmetic products by the European Regulation since 2001. The effectiveness of licorice extract is due to the presence of glabridine, a powerful depigmenting agent known for its lightening properties. It is able to inhibit tyrosinase, which is responsible for the production of melanin. The equation is simple: less melanin means less pigments, fewer brown spots and a more even skin tone.

• Prevent photo-aging of the skin thanks to its antioxidant power

  Rich in antioxidant species such as flavonoids, licorice extract is an excellent ally in protecting the skin from free radicals. As a reminder, free radicals are reactive oxygen species produced naturally by the body. Nevertheless, when cells are confronted with stress, they generate them in an excessive way. There are many sources of stress, the main ones being exposure to UV rays, pollution, smoking, a diet too rich in fats and/or sugars, etc... Free radicals are particularly unstable molecules because of their single electron. They tend to react with other molecules to form an electron pair, and then cause damage to cells, DNA and proteins of the body. Skin aging is thus accelerated and wrinkles appear on the surface of the skin. The flavonoids present in licorice extract neutralize the action of free radicals by giving up electrons to make these molecules stable and less reactive. Thus, this plant active ingredient delays skin aging and protects the skin from external aggressions.

• To alleviate the rednesses and the cutaneous irritations
  The glycyrrhizic acid gives this extract a recognized direct anti-inflammatory effect. It thus makes it possible to relieve the irritated skins, rednesses, itchings, as well as the eczema. It is thus particularly effective on the atopic skins. It is even described as a natural cortisone because of these properties. Indeed, glycyrrhizic acid acts by stimulating endogenous anti-inflammatory mechanisms, in particular by maintaining cortisol (anti-inflammatory naturally present in the skin) in its active form and by reducing the production of pro-inflammatory cytokines.