What is "Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract" and what is its utility?

Liquorice, or smooth liquorice, is a perennial plant from the Fabaceae family with aromatic roots. It originates from the south of Europe and Asia, and today grows in various regions of the world (Mediterranean basin, southern United States, Middle East, North Africa, Mauritius).

To obtain thelicorice plant extract referred to under the I.N.C.I. name "Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract", dried licorice roots underwent an ethanol extraction followed by a purification step, a re-extraction with ethyl acetate and finally a vacuum drying. The compound obtained primarily contains theglycyrrhizic acid (Glycyrrhizine) known for its anti-inflammatory properties, as well as flavonoids and isoflavonoids (glabrene and isoliquiritigenin), capable of inhibiting tyrosinase involved in the synthesis of melanin.

Thanks to its biochemical composition, theliquorice extract provides several benefits when applied topically:

• Combating hyperpigmentation.

  As a reminder, hyperpigmentation is a disruption in the melanogenesis process. The melanin, the pigment responsible for the natural colouration of the skin, is overproduced in certain areas, leading to the appearance of brown, red or pink spots that can sometimes be unsightly. These spots vary in size and affect the uniformity of the complexion. Liquorice extract is often compared to hydroquinone due to its pigment-regulating properties. It has the advantage of being gentler and better tolerated by the skin than hydroquinone, which has been banned in all cosmetic products by the European Regulation since 2001. The effectiveness of liquorice extract is due to the presence of glabridin, a powerful depigmenting agent known for its lightening virtues. It is capable of inhibiting tyrosinase, which is responsible for the production of melanin. The equation is simple: less melanin means fewer pigments, fewer brown spots and a more uniform complexion.

• PPreventing skin photoaging through its antioxidant power.

  Rich in antioxidant species such as flavonoids, liquorice extract is an excellent ally for protecting the skin from free radicals. As a reminder, these are reactive oxygen species naturally produced by the body. However, when cells are faced with a stress, they generate them excessively. The sources of stress are numerous, the main ones being UV exposure, pollution, smoking, a diet too rich in fats and/or sugars, etc... Free radicals are particularly unstable molecules due to their single electron. They tend to react with other molecules to form a pair of electrons, and thus cause damage to cells, DNA and proteins in the body. This accelerates ageing and wrinkles appear on the skin surface. The flavonoids present in liquorice extract neutralise the action of free radicals by donating electrons to make these molecules stable and less reactive. Thus, this plant active delays skin ageing and protects the skin from external aggressions .

• Alleviate skin redness and irritation.

  The glycyrrhizic acid lends this extract a recognised direct anti-inflammatory activity. It therefore helps to soothe irritated skin, redness, itching, as well as eczema. It is particularly effective on atopic skin. It is even referred to as natural cortisone due to these properties. Indeed, the acid glycyrrhizic works by stimulating endogenous anti-inflammatory mechanisms, particularly by maintaining cortisol (a natural anti-inflammatory present in the skin) in its active form and reducing the production of pro-inflammatory cytokines.

The anti-mark serum contains liquorice extract combined with other brightening and repairing active ingredients, such as the gluconolactone from the PHA category and the extract of Centella asiatica. To fade scars and post-acne marks, apply a drop locally to the affected areas, only in the evening.

• SARKAR R. & al. Cosmeceuticals for Hyperpigmentation: What is Available?Journal of Cutaneous and Aesthetic Surgery (2013).

• FRATTARUOLO L. & al. Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of flavanones from Glycyrrhiza glabra L. (licorice) leaf phytocomplexes: identification of licoflavanone as a modulator of NF-kB/MAPK pathway. Antioxidants (Basel) (2019).