Mature skin: which skincare routine should you adopt?

Skin is described as mature when the signs of intrinsic and extrinsic ageing become predominant. This is characterised by a marked slowing of cellular metabolism. In fact, the production of collagen and elastin decreases, leading to a loss of density and visible skin laxity around the facial contour. Wrinkles, initially expression lines, deepen and become static due to the weakening of the extracellular matrix. At the same time, keratinocyte renewal slows down, resulting in a less even skin texture and a loss of radiance that is characteristic.

Moreover, mature skin also undergoes changes in its hydrolipidic film. The decline in the activity of the sebaceous glands leads to chronic skin dryness, making the epidermis more vulnerable to external stressors and promoting the onset of feelings of discomfort, and even itching. On the surface, pigmentary disorders become more pronounced, promoted by lifelong exposure to UV radiation, which disrupts the distribution of melanin and leads to the appearance of brown spots.

In short, a mature skin is therefore a thinner, more reactive, more marked and drier skin, which has specific needs.

In the morning, the main objective is to help the skin defend itself against external aggressions and oxidative stress which accelerate skin ageing.

1. A very gentle cleansing.

   Unlike some younger skin, which may require the removal of excess sebum produced overnight, mature skin often shows a lipid deficit upon waking. Cleansing with overly aggressive, strong surfactants can further weaken the skin barrier. It is therefore preferable to use a creamy cleansing milk or a gentle cleansing oil, which emulsify impurities while leaving a protective veil on the skin.

2. Antioxidant protection.

   Oxidative stress is the main driver of extrinsic ageing. At any age, it is therefore beneficial to include antioxidants in one’s skincare routine, as these molecules are capable of neutralising free radicals. You can, for example, use a vitamin C serum. In addition to combating oxidative stress, this active ingredient stimulates collagen production, which is often reduced in mature skin.

   Advice : To maximise the effectiveness of vitamin C, you can look for formulations that combine it with vitamin E. These two active substances act synergistically, as vitamin C is able to regenerate vitamin E after it has neutralised free radicals, thereby prolonging its antioxidant activity.

3. A water intake.

   The natural water reservoirs of mature skin, more precisely its glycosaminoglycans such as hyaluronic acid, are often insufficient. To maintain skin comfort, it may therefore be appropriate to use a serum based on hyaluronic acid, especially if it has been formulated with different molecular weights. Indeed, while high molecular weight hyaluronic acid forms a protective film on the skin’s surface to reduce transepidermal water loss, its low molecular weight counterpart penetrates more deeply into the epidermis and stimulates the skin’s own synthesis of hyaluronic acid, resulting in skin that is softer and more plumped.

4. Caring for the eye contour area.

   The skin around the eye contour is three to five times thinner than that on the rest of the face and contains virtually no sebaceous glands. In mature skin, this very delicate area often reveals the passage of time through the appearance of crow’s feet wrinkles. It is therefore advisable to use a treatment specifically formulated for this area. You may choose a product based on peptides, retinoids, or coenzyme Q10, all of which are active ingredients known for their firming effects.

5. A rich cream to lock in moisture.

   The thinning of mature skin is accompanied by a weakening of the epidermal barrier, with a decrease in cholesterol, ceramides and fatty acids. To restore it, it is advisable to use a rich day cream containing, for example, biomimetic lipids such as squalane or ceramides. This also helps to restore the skin’s elasticity and to combat pruritus and the discomfort often experienced after the menopause.

6. Daily photoprotection.

   Sun protection is not optional. Even for mature skin, it is the daytime treatment par excellence. Long UVA rays penetrate as far as the deep dermis, where they destroy the already scarce elastin fibres, causing what is known as solar elastosis, which gives the skin a crumpled appearance. A product with SPF 50, applied generously to the face, neck, décolleté and backs of the hands, is the only barrier capable of halting the progression of existing pigmentation spots and slowing the breakdown of the extracellular matrix.

Hands also reveal the passage of time. At the end of your skincare routine, we recommend applying a hand cream to moisturise them and protect them against environmental stressors.

Night-time is when skin regeneration reaches its peak and when the skin is shielded from external aggressors. It is therefore the ideal moment to use more targeted active ingredients, while continuing to reinforce the skin’s barrier function.

1. Double cleansing.

   Do a double cleanse in the evening is beneficial regardless of age or skin type. As well as being highly effective for cleansing the skin, this method is respectful of the epidermis and promotes the absorption of the active ingredients used afterwards. To carry out a double cleanse, start by applying a cleansing oil, which dissolves make-up and sun filters, then gently massage before rinsing. You can then follow with a gentle water-based cleanser, ideally with a creamy texture and enriched with hydrating agents such as glycerine or aloe vera. This second step removes any remaining residues without attacking the stratum corneum.

2. Exfoliation, once or twice a week.

   With age, the cell renewal cycle slows down, increasing from 28 days to more than 45 days. This phenomenon leads to an accumulation of dead cells on the surface, making the complexion dull and accentuating wrinkles. Regular exfoliation, limited to once or twice a week, helps to reactivate this process.

   For mature skin, opt for chemical exfoliants, such as glycolic acid or gluconolactone for sensitive skin, rather than grain-based mechanical scrubs, which are often too abrasive for an epidermis that is becoming thinner. Moreover, by gently removing keratinocytes from the stratum corneum, exfoliation helps to gradually reduce pigmentation spots.

3. Targeted treatment.

   Evening is the ideal time to introduce retinol, the gold-standard active ingredient for correcting the visible signs of skin ageing. Retinol acts both at the surface, by refining skin texture, and more deeply, by stimulating fibroblasts to restart the production of collagen and elastin. In this way, it helps to reduce the depth of established wrinkles. However, as retinol is a powerful molecule, it must be introduced gradually (once or twice a week at first) to allow the skin to build up its tolerance.

4. Caring for the eye contour area.

   In the evening as in the morning, it is beneficial to care for the eye contour by applying a product formulated specifically for this delicate area.

5. Intensive nourishment with a rich cream.

   The final step in the night-time routine is to lock in hydration and supply the lipids required to repair the skin barrier. As mature skin undergoes a high level of insensible water loss during the night, using a rich night cream, or even a relipidising balm, can be particularly beneficial.

   Tip : For the driest areas, you can use a plant oil as a final step, such as rosehip oil, which is highly valued for mature skin.

Just as you do in the morning, feel free to complete your routine by applying a hand cream.

• MAIBACH H. & al. Characteristics of the aging skin. Advances in Wound Care (2013).

• HASHIZUME H. & al. Skin aging and dry skin. The Journal of Dermatology (2014).

• EL-SHERBINY A. A. & al. Influences on skin and intrinsic aging: Biological, environmental, and therapeutic insights. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2024).

• ZHANG C. & al. A global perspective on the treatment and maintenance of mature skin using gentle cleansers and moisturizers. International Journal of Dermatology (2024).

• SCHLESINGER T. & al. Promoting a healthy skin barrier using skin care in people with mature skin xerosis. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (2024).