Retinol: Everything you need to know about this active ingre

Retinol

Commonly known as: Retinol, Vitamin A.

I.N.C.I. list name: Retinol.

Extraction process: Synthesis from a gas, the isoprene.

Source: Synthetic.

Botanical name: /

Family: /

Extracted part of the plant: /

Origin, provenance: Germany.

Chemical properties: Form of retinoid; Hydrophobic molecule (not soluble in an aqueous environment); Density: approximately 0.9 g/cm3; Miscible in fats; Molecular weight: 286.5 g/mol; pH: 5.5 - 8.0.

Properties: Emulsion, colloidal solution, true aqueous solution.

Required dosage in cosmetic products: The SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety) recommends a maximum percentage of 0.3% in a non-rinse cosmetic formula and 0.05% in a body lotion. Minimum concentration: 0.01%.

Function: Skin maintenance agent.

Specificities: Antioxidant, brightening, lightening/depigmenting, anti-inflammatory, anti-seborrheic, antibacterial, astringent, regenerating, keratolytic.

Benefits: All skin types, particularly mature skin, oily skin, acne-prone skin, skin with acne marks or pigmentation spots, and blemished skin; All hair types, especially those with an oily scalp, whether or not they have oily dandruff.

Means of Preservation

Retinol is sensitive to oxygen, heat, light, and heavy metals. It is unstable in the presence of acids and alkalis. It should be stored in a cool, dry place, at a temperature not exceeding +15°C, and shielded from light, moisture, and high temperatures. Protection from temperatures below 0°C is also necessary.

Contraindications, Usage Precautions

An active ingredient with potential sensitising power, which can cause skin dryness, tingling, tightness, discomfort, flaking, redness.... That's why it is not recommended for sensitive and reactive skin. Before using a retinol-based skincare product, perform a skin tolerance test. Apply a few drops of the product in question to the crook of your arm or on your wrist and wait a few seconds. If a significant skin reaction occurs, do not apply the skincare product to your face.

As a precautionary measure, the use of cosmetic treatments containing retinoids during pregnancy and breastfeeding is not recommended.

Retinol is a photosensitising substance thus it is preferable to use it at night. Also remember to apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen during the day and avoid any exposure to the sun.

Vitamin A plays a role in night vision, hence the name "retinol" which derives from the retina of the eye. In the past, Egyptians used beef liver compresses containing retinol on the eyes of the blind to treat blindness. However, it was not until 1931 that it was first isolated from mackerel liver oil by a Swiss chemist P. KARRER and was used for the first time in dermatology in 1943 for the treatment of acne, particularly by promoting cell renewal and exfoliating the skin. This then helps to unclog pores and regulate sebum production. In addition to acting on the surface, it also works in depth. Later, retinol is considered one of the most effective compounds to compensate for the degradation of the skin's support fibres. It has the ability to stimulate collagen, hyaluronic acid, fibroblasts and elastin for smoother, firmer and more elastic skin. Furthermore, retinol is recognised for its antioxidant virtues which prevent the premature ageing of skin cells. It also has an effect on the skin's melanin production, helping to reduce the appearance of brown spots that can appear with age.