Oily Skin (+): Mistakes to Avoid.

Makeup removal and cleansing are essential aspects of any skincare routine. They help to eliminate makeup, tiny dust particles, environmental pollutants, sebum, sweat, unwanted bacteria, dead cells or any other impurities that the often enlarged pores of oily skin may have accumulated. Without this, imperfections can easily form.

What is the correct approach to take?

Thoroughly remove your makeup and cleanse your skin morning and evening gently, without causing any harm. If you wear makeup daily or apply water-resistant sunscreen, opt for a double cleanse at the end of each day. Otherwise, a simple cleanse may suffice using a water-based cleanser, even though double cleansing is a plus, especially for those living in a polluted environment or those with acne-prone skin. Lastly, favour a non-comedogenic hydrating liquid cleanser with sebum-regulating active ingredients in the formula.

Note : Non-comedogenic does not equate to being oil-free.

Which products should be recommended?

As a greasy cleanser, we recommend our 7-ingredient makeup removing oil. Minimalist in design, it will dissolve makeup, pollution particles, excess sebum... without greasing the skin, without the risk of forming pimples or blackheads. As an aqueous cleanser, we advise our purifying foaming gel which will gently cleanse and purify the skin without drying it out. Its formula based on mild surfactants (coco-glucoside, coco-betaine) respects the skin's balance. The zinc PCA and the aquatic bamboo extract (INCI name: Phyllostachys Bambusoides Extract) will stabilise the skin's functioning and regulate sebum secretion. In addition to sebum-regulating and absorbing ingredients, there is also eucalyptus globulus essential oil (INCI name: Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil) with anti-bacterial properties. The addition of hydrophilic film-forming agents in the formula (inulin) will reduce the interaction between the surfactants and the lipids of the horny layer by leaving a film on the surface, and also restore the moisture lost during washing.

One of the initial instincts when dealing with oily skin is to try at all costs to eliminate the excess sebum by over-cleansing the skin. Some perceive oily skin as a lack of hygiene. However, even though it is necessary to cleanse the skin daily, one must avoid overdoing it. Indeed, excessive or harsh cleansing only further disrupts the skin's balance by promoting the deterioration of the skin barrier, increasing transepidermal water loss, drying out the skin, irritating the epidermis, and causing erythema. Weakened, the epidermis then reacts by producing more sebum, thereby causing the opposite effect. Let's remember that sebum is necessary to keep the skin hydrated and protected as it contributes to the composition of the hydrolipidic film.

What is the correct approach to take?

Cleansing should be limited to a maximum of twice a day, ideally in the morning and evening. Furthermore, avoid the daily use of abrasive methods: cleansing brushes, grainy scrubs, masks, peelings, exfoliating gloves, konjac sponges, etc.

If your skin is oily, it is crucial to exfoliate it to remove dead cells and unclog pores for a deep cleanse, thus preventing blackheads. However, this does not mean it should be done daily. Indeed, some people believe that oily skin should be frequently exfoliated to combat excess sebum and rid the skin of impurities. Yet, you risk achieving the opposite effect. Over-exfoliation (more than twice a week) can be harsh and stripping, and can quickly irritate or even inflame the epidermis, thereby promoting a reactive overproduction of sebum to protect it. The result? You end up with even oilier skin.

What is the correct approach to take?

To remove dead skin without risking exacerbating your excess sebum, we advise you to limit yourself to one or two exfoliations per week, adhere to the manufacturer's recommendations and do not exceed them. Similarly, strictly follow the indicated time, do not let the treatment act for too long. Then, opt for treatments that contain fruit enzymes or fruit acids which act more gently.

Which products should be recommended?

You have the exfoliating serum at 10% ofglycolic acid or the gentle peeling serum at 10% oflactic acid to refine the skin texture and thus prevent the appearance of imperfections. Without rinsing, the choice between these two serums depends on your skin's tolerance. Theglycolic acid is the smallest of the AHA allowing it to penetrate more deeply and can therefore cause slight tingling, redness or even a warming sensation. Conversely, thelactic acid of larger size will act more on the surface and also help to eliminate unwanted bacteria in order to keep only what the epidermis needs, thus rebalancing the microbiome. It can therefore be suitable for sensitive skin. Another option is to opt for the exfoliating cleansing gel at 5% of PHA (INCI name: Gluconolactone) or the exfoliating lotion at 8% glycolic acid daily which, instead of intensely scrubbing the skin once a week, act gently day after day to gradually remove dead skin cells and impurities.

One of the most common misconceptions is the belief that an oily skin does not require hydration, simply because it appears shiny and shows no signs of dryness. However, all skin types need hydration to compensate for the water we lose daily through sweating or evaporation (skin perspiration), in addition to limiting this transepidermal water loss. The peculiarity of oily skin is to "recharge" the skin with water, while helping to regulate the sebum level. If oily skin is not hydrated, it will lead to the skin compensating by producing more sebum to create a protective barrier to retain water.

What is the correct approach to take?

Apply a moisturising cream twice a day, morning and evening, after a gentle cleanse. A moisturising treatment with a fluid, light, airy, aqueous texture like a gel-cream or a micro-emulsion should be favoured.

Which products should be recommended?

Our purifying face cream is suitable for this skin type. In addition to ensuring sebum control thanks to the zinc PCA and the bamboo extract it contains to absorb excess sebum and rebalance the hydrolipidic film, it provides the right level of skin hydration due to its content in glycerine and pyrrolidone-carboxylic acid (PCA), restoring radiance and suppleness to the facial skin. These compounds act as a humectant and moisturising agent. Its light and fluid texture quickly penetrates the epidermis without making the skin greasier and without a sticky effect.

Dried out blemishes, reduced shine, less visible pores... even if your skin appears to have visibly improved after being exposed to the sun's rays, an excess of UV radiation can cause long-term imbalances. To defend against UV, the skin thickens but this also means that the sebum produced by the sebaceous glands can no longer flow properly. The consequences? the pores become clogged and one can expect an increase in sebum production once the effects of the sun have faded, thus maintaining a risk of bacterial contamination and the appearance of new blemishes as soon as the skin thins once the tan has dissipated.

What is the correct approach to take?

Minimise your exposure time. Moreover, protect yourself as soon as you expose yourself to the sun with a solar care SPF 30 or 50 product that is suitable, either with a water-based and light texture or an oil-free gel. Avoid thick sun creams or oils that could exacerbate the nuisances.

Which products should be recommended?

Fluid and light, our SPF50 face sunscreen ensures to provide high sun protection to the skin. This photoprotective care actually offers a dual action at the same time. Beyond the broad-spectrum anti-UVA/UVB protection thanks to the combination of mineral filters (titanium dioxide) and organic filters (disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine), it hydrates the epidermis with the presence ofaloe vera (INCI name: Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder) andhyaluronic acid (INCI name: Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid) protecting the skin from drying out. Moreover, it does not leave an oily skin feeling, white marks and does not stick.

When one has oily skin, one spends their time trying to mattify their complexion and hide shine. Cream, serum, powder, primer, makeup setting spray, foundation... there are misconceptions that excessively using mattifying skincare products would better control sebum production. On the contrary, applying them daily and in layers risks unbalancing the skin by drying it out, and only achieves the opposite effect and perpetuates the problem, resulting in even oilier skin. It will overproduce sebum to regain a semblance of balance. Indeed, the more you dry out the epidermis, the more it will produce sebum to protect itself and the more you will mattify it... a true vicious cycle.

What is the correct approach to take?

It is possible to mattify your skin without going to extremes so as not to completely block the secretion of sebum. A mattifying care product is sufficient. For example, if you choose a mattifying foundation, you do not need to accompany it with a absorbent powder. Similarly, if you decide to opt for a light veil of powder for a matte finish, there is no need to set it all with a makeup fixing mist or to apply a mattifying face cream beforehand.

It is commonly believed that the more a facial cleanser strips the skin, the more effective it is. Indeed, initially, the skin no longer shines. However, products that excessively dry out the skin can create a rebound effect, causing the skin to produce more sebum. Many cleansers are based on so-called anionic surfactants (e.g., sulfated castor oil, sodium coco-sulfate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate...), like most soaps, and are frequently used to cleanse oily skin.

Indeed, these surfactants bind to the lipids in the stratum corneum, leading to a weakening of the skin barrier and thus reducing its ability to retain water. They also increase the pH of the skin's surface, whereas the acidic mantle of the epidermis is a bacteriostatic environment that inhibits the growth of undesirable bacteria, in addition to having a drying and irritating effect on the skin.

Similarly, overly nourishing treatments or comedogenic oils, which have a greasy feel such as thecoconut oil or wheat germ oil should be avoided for oily skin. They will clog the pores, cause more blemishes to appear and make the skin shinier.

What is the correct approach to take?

It is crucial to use skincare products that are suitable for your skin type to avoid any skin discomfort. Opt for light creams and/or light plant-based oils with a dry touch such as jojoba oil or hazelnut oil. Regarding the cleansing process, choose cleansers based on emollients and/or non-ionic surfactants like coco-glucoside, lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside... They are generally gentler and interact as little as possible with the structure of the stratum corneum, thus causing minimal disruption to the skin barrier. Although they hardly foam, they still have good detergent activity. The cleansers used should also be soap-free, have a physiological pH, and be free of alcohols.

Used daily, it's common to forget to clean one's makeup accessories (brushes, makeup sponges...). However, this act is not insignificant, a hygienic reflex that we may not necessarily have due to lack of motivation or time, but which is nevertheless crucial. When they are dirty (poorly or not cleaned), they can become vectors for bacteria. Makeup residues, dust, germs... these impurities will mix with sebum, clog the pores and create imperfections, as well as dull the complexion. This is also applicable to pillowcases, mobile phones... any object that is regularly in contact with the skin and can also constitute real breeding grounds for bacteria.

What is the correct approach to take?

Regularly clean your makeup accessories, ideally after each use or at the very least twice a week, using warm water and soap. Similarly, change your pillowcase at least once a week and clean your phone daily.

• GOODMAN G. Cleansing and moisturizing in acne patients. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology (2009).