What are the beneficial effects of bamboo extract on the skin?

Originally from the Asian continent, bamboo is recognised as one of the fastest growing plants in the plant kingdom. It is notable for the mineral richness of its sap, particularly in silicon dioxide, a compound that contributes to the structure and cohesion of its supporting tissues. In cosmetics, the bamboo extract is generally obtained from the species Phyllostachys pubescens and listed under the INCI designation Phyllostachys Bambusoides Extract. Beyond its silica content, this extract also contains flavones, glycosides, phenolic acids and amino acids, which impart astringent, antioxidant and soothing properties, particularly beneficial for oil-prone skin.

Thus, bamboo extract is frequently incorporated into skincare formulations designed for oily skin.

A clinical study thus examined the impact of a protocol combining plant extracts, including bamboo extract, on sebum production in 60 young women with mild to moderate acne. They were divided into two groups: the first received sonophoresis sessions combining ultrasound with a gel containing green tea extract, bamboo extract and 5% lactic acid, and the placebo group received only the gel without active ingredients. After five sessions conducted at weekly intervals, the results showed a significant reduction in sebum levels and blemishes among the treated participants, suggesting a beneficial effect of the protocol.

These results must, however, be interpreted with caution. The study assesses a combined protocol integrating various actives known for their ability to target excess sebum and ultrasound, which prevents isolating the effect of the bamboo extract. Moreover, the observed effect relates to a short-term reduction in sebum, with no data on any lasting effect or on the use of conventional cosmetic care without a sonophoresis device.

Another advantage of bamboo extract is its antioxidant potential, linked to its richness in phenolic compounds. These molecules are involved in the neutralisation of oxidative stress, a biological phenomenon characterised by an overproduction of free radicals, when cells are exposed to stress factors such as UV rays, pollution or smoking. Due to their unpaired electron, free radicals are unstable and seek to react with other molecules, leading to alterations in membrane lipids, structural proteins such as collagen and elastin, as well as DNA. The phenols present in bamboo extract can donate an electron to free radicals, thereby contributing to their stabilisation and limiting deleterious chain reactions.

Several studies support this antioxidant activity. One study investigated various bamboo extracts and assessed their ability to scavenge free radicals using different assays in vitro. These extracts demonstrated a strong antioxidant activity, particularly in the ABTS assay, with an IC50 of 3.07 μg/mL, a result comparable to that achieved with ascorbic acid, which was used as the control. Although these initial results are encouraging, it is important to note that these in vitro data cannot be extrapolated to a cosmetic application on human skin. They nonetheless suggest that bamboo extract may help to reinforce the skin’s antioxidant defence mechanisms.

Moreover, bamboo extract is frequently associated with soothing properties. As such, it is sometimes incorporated into treatments aimed at sensitive skin and mentioned in chronic inflammatory contexts, such as atopic dermatitis. This skin disease is characterised by an alteration of the skin barrier, persistent inflammation and an exacerbated immune response, rendering the skin particularly vulnerable to external aggressors.

Experimental studies have sought to investigate this anti-inflammatory effect using bamboo extracts, notably of Phyllostachys nigra. One study examined the impact of this extract on human cell models (HaCaT keratinocytes and HMC-1 mast cells), as well as on a murine model of chemically induced atopic dermatitis. The results demonstrated a significant reduction in several pro-inflammatory mediators, such as TARC, GM-CSF, TNF-α, MCP-1 and IL-6. In mice displaying atopic-dermatitis-like lesions, application of the bamboo extract was associated with a decrease in the SCORAD score, reduced thickening of the epidermis and dermis, and diminished infiltration of inflammatory cells, particularly mast cells.

These results suggest promising anti-inflammatory potential in certain bamboo extracts.

Nevertheless, their extrapolation to the cosmetic sector remains limited. The study relies on cellular and animal models, without detailing the extract concentrations used or providing precise numerical data on the reduction in SCORAD score or on the measured pro-inflammatory mediators. As a result, although bamboo extract may help to soothe sensitive or discomfort-prone skin when incorporated into an appropriate formulation, these findings do not allow for definitive conclusions.

Bamboo extract is also being investigated for its potential to modulate melanin synthesis, the pigment responsible for skin colouring. Certain studies have examined bamboo by-products, notably the skins of young shoots, to evaluate their ability to inhibit the melanogenesis, which is closely associated with the activity of tyrosinase, the enzyme that catalyses the conversion of tyrosine into melanin.

A study thus evaluated the melanin-inhibitory activity of a methanolic extract of bamboo shoot skins (Phyllostachys pubescens). The results showed that this extract was able to significantly reduce melanin production in melanoma cells, with a maximal effect observed at a concentration of 0.25%, resulting in an inhibition of melanogenesis of up to 78.4% relative to the control. The study also demonstrated a decrease in tyrosinase mRNA expression, comparable to kojic acid used as a positive control.

Despite these encouraging findings, several factors call for caution. The study is based on specific bamboo skin extracts obtained via a methanolic extraction process, which do not necessarily reflect the composition of the bamboo extracts used in cosmetics. While these data indicate a promising potential in the modulation of pigmentation, they do not allow for the conclusion that bamboo extract has a demonstrable effect in reducing brown spots, and underline the need for additional clinical studies.

• TANAKA A. & al. Biological activities and phytochemical profiles of extracts from different parts of bamboo (Phyllostachys pubescens). Molecules (2014).

• WILCZYNSKI S. & al. The effects of green tea (Camellia sinensis), bamboo extract (Bambusa vulgaris) and lactic acid on sebum production in young women with acne vulgaris using sonophoresis treatment. Healthcare (2022).

• LOIZZO M. R. & al. Anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects of leaves and sheath from bamboo (Phyllostacys edulis J. Houz). Antioxidants (2023).

• SHIMIZU K. & al. Melanin synthesis inhibition activity of compounds isolated from bamboo shoot skin (Phyllostachys pubescens). Molecules (2023).

• JUNG H.-S. & al. Phyllostachys nigra Munro var alleviates inflammatory chemokine expression and DNCB-induced atopic-like dermatitis in BALB/c mice. Journal of Ethnopharmacology (2024).