Common mistakes to avoid when you have dilated pores.

Pores are essential to the skin’s balance. Linked to sebaceous glands, they enable sebum to flow onto the surface of the epidermis, keeping it hydrated and supple. Present over the entire body, except on the palms and soles, these microscopic openings can sometimes become visible to the naked eye. This is referred to as enlarged pores, a phenomenon particularly common on the T-zone of the face (forehead, nose, chin), where the skin secretes more sebum. This phenomenon is explained by a combination of internal and external factors. Among the internal causes of enlarged pores, genetics, hormonal fluctuations causing hyperseborrhoea, or skin ageing responsible for a loosening of the pore structure. Added to these are environmental factors such as chronic UV exposure or inadequate hygiene.

The pores are classed as dilated when their diameter exceeds 0.06 mm.

If the appearance of pores is predominantly governed by internal factors beyond our control, certain practices can enhance their appearance or, conversely, exacerbate it. Here are the mistakes to avoid if you have enlarged pores:

• Over-exfoliating the skin.

  When aiming to refine one’s skin texture, exfoliation seems like a logical step. Mechanical scrubs, exfoliating acids, peels… While these products are very useful, if used excessively they can weaken the skin barrier. To protect itself, the skin then begins to produce more sebum, a phenomenon known as reactive hyperseborrhoea, which further enlarges the pores. Thus, even though it may be tempting, one should avoid overusing exfoliating products when one’s pores are dilated.

One to two exfoliations per week are more than sufficient, regardless of your skin type.

• Failure to remove make-up.

  Neglecting make-up removal at the end of the day is a common mistake that can worsen the appearance of enlarged pores. Make-up, especially when formulated to be long-wearing or water-resistant (waterproof), contains film-forming agents designed to adhere to the skin. If it is not removed, residues can accumulate within the follicular openings and promote their obstruction and dilatation. Furthermore, poorly cleansed skin is more prone to low-grade chronic inflammation, a silent yet harmful phenomenon that compromises the quality of the connective tissue around the pore, particularly the fibres of collagen and elastin responsible for its support. In the long term, this contributes to a loss of firmness and accentuates pore enlargement.

A make-up removal daily, ideally in two steps (first with an oil-based cleanser, followed by an aqueous cleanser), helps to limit pore congestion and prevent their dilation.

• Not protecting oneself from the sun’s rays.

  Exposing oneself to sunlight during the summer season to reduce pore size may a priori appear to be a good idea. The initial effects of UV rays can give the illusion of smoother, less oily skin due to a temporary drying action. However, this improvement is short-lived.

  After the initial desiccation phase, the skin responds with a compensatory hyperseborrhoea mechanism: the sebaceous glands, stimulated by the disruption of the hydrolipidic balance, then produce an excessive amount of sebum. Simultaneously, UV-induced thickening of the stratum corneum tends to further obstruct the pores. Sebum then struggles to drain and, by accumulating in the pilosebaceous follicles, causes them to distend. Added to this is an even more insidious effect of UV rays: their ability to degrade dermal collagen and elastin fibres via the production of free radicals. This alteration of the skin’s supporting tissue reduces the firmness around the pores, contributing to their increased visibility and laxity.

Far from constricting pores, sun exposure accentuates their dilation, hence the importance of applying a sunscreen.

• Using overly rich products.

  Sometimes one uses a cream simply because its packaging is attractive, its texture is comforting or its scent is enticing. Yet a pleasant formulation is not necessarily an appropriate one, especially when pores tend to be enlarged. In such cases, using overly rich products can swiftly become counterproductive. Thick textures leave an occlusive barrier on the surface, which impedes the skin’s natural sebum elimination. When trapped, sebum distends the pores. To avoid this vicious cycle, if you have the combination to oily skin, it is better to favour lightweight and non-comedogenic formulations that are richer in hydrating actives, such as hyaluronic acid or glycerine, rather than nourishing agents like butters and oils.

Select products tailored to your skin typology as the first step towards clearer, healthier skin.

• Excessive use of mattifying powder.

  When the skin shines and pores appear to deepen as the day progresses, it can be tempting to reach for your mattifying powder at every glance in the mirror. However, repeatedly topping up is far from an ideal solution. By layering on the powder, the particles eventually compact on the skin’s surface, gradually obstructing the pore openings. A plug then forms, trapping sebum within the follicles and increasing pore dilation. Moreover, some mattifying powders contain fairly drying absorbent agents which, when overused, can weaken the hydrolipidic film and provoke reactive hyperseborrhoea.

If your pores tend to dilate but you favour mattifying powder, we recommend applying it sparingly, in fine, localised dabs, and limiting yourself to just one touch-up per day.

• Can excessive consumption of fried foods and sugar exacerbate the dilation of pores?

  It’s an idea that often resurfaces: a diet too rich in fried foods, sugar or processed products would make the skin greasier and the pores more visible. Scientific data have indeed highlighted a link between a diet high in high-glycaemic-index foods, rich in saturated fatty acids and poor in omega-3s, and sebaceous gland hyperactivity. This dietary imbalance would activate the metabolic pathway of the mTORC1 complex, involved in lipid synthesis, particularly sebum. This pathway stimulates the production of factors such as SREBP-1c and PPARγ, which boost lipogenesis in the sebaceous glands, resulting in increased sebum production and the gradual clogging of pores.

  However, the precise impact of diet on pore dilation remains to be clarified. Every skin type reacts differently, and it would be unfair to blame those prone to enlarged pores for their dietary habits. That said, from a holistic health perspective, it remains advisable to limit foods very high in fat and sugar, not solely to tighten the pores, but more importantly to support long-term hormonal and metabolic balance.

• BARNARD N. D. & al. Diet and acne: A review of the evidence. International Journal of Dermatology (2009).

• TAKAHASHI K. & al. Analysis of the skin surface and inner structure around pores on the face. Skin Research and Technology (2013).

• MELNIK B. C. Linking diet to acne metabolomics, inflammation, and comedogenesis: An update. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology (2015).

• GOLDENBERG G. & al. Enlarged facial pores: An update on treatments. Cutis (2016).