Pores are essential to the skin, enabling it to expel sebum. However, they can sometimes become dilated, which may pose an aesthetic concern. What can be done to tighten dilated pores? Discover all our advice in this article.
Dilated pores: how to minimise them?
Summary
Published on August 21, 2025, by Maylis, Chemical Engineer — 11 min of reading
Themes:
What factors contribute to pore enlargement?
The dilation of pores is a multifactorial phenomenon resulting from closely interlinked biological and environmental mechanisms. Sebum plays a central role: excessive production, combined with an accumulation of keratinocytes in the follicular canal, exerts a pressure that gradually widens the pore opening. This process is amplified by hormonal influence, notably that of androgens, which stimulate both sebaceous gland activity and hair follicle growth. Hair shaft thickness is also a key factor, as a large follicle, together with a dermal papilla rich in cells and extracellular matrix, tends to expand the pore structure on the skin’s surface.
With age, another mechanism comes into play: the loss of skin elasticity and inflammaging, a low-grade chronic inflammation that weakens the dermal-epidermal junction and degrades the fibres of collagen. This progression promotes tissue laxity around the pores, accentuating their appearance. Added to this are environmental stressors, particularly sun exposure, which compromises the skin barrier, impairs the quality of supporting fibres and stimulates free radical production. Finally, an inappropriate skincare routine can disrupt the skin’s balance, promote pore blockage and further accentuate their visibility.
Dilated or enlarged pores do not stem from a single cause, but from a combination of genetic, hormonal and external factors that interact with one another.
Which cosmetic skincare routine should be adopted when one has dilated pores?
An appropriate skincare routine is essential to limit the dilation of pores and improve their appearance. The aim is to act on several levels: regulate sebum production, maintain adequate skin hydration, promote cellular renewal and protect the skin from environmental aggressors.
Cleansing is the essential first step in combating enlarged pores. Every evening, it is advisable to use a cleanser mild, non-detergent, formulated specifically for combination-to-oily skin and/or skin prone to enlarged pores. Some active ingredients, such as the zinc PCA are particularly interesting: they exert a mattifying action and curb the bacterial proliferation that often accompanies seborrhoea. Moreover, we advise that you do not choose a product that is overly detergent, containing harsh surfactants or high concentrations of alcohol, a common mistake when dealing with enlarged pores. In fact, while this type of cleanser immediately removes excess sebum, it can trigger reactive seborrhoea. This phenomenon corresponds to an overproduction of sebum by the sebaceous glands in response to an assault, the skin seeking to compensate for the dehydration induced by overly stripping cleansing.
After the evening cleanse or as a substitute for the morning cleanser, applying a toning lotion can help to rebalance the skin. Hydrosols, such as that of peppermint, have refreshing and slightly astringent properties, and can help to gently tighten dilated pores.
Whether your pores are enlarged or not, it is crucial to properly hydrate your skin. Indeed, dehydrated skin tends to produce more sebum to compensate for its fragility. Treatments rich in humectants, such as hyaluronic acid, help maintain an adequate level of hydration in the epidermis. Thus, morning and evening, apply a moisturiser tailored to your skin type. Furthermore, certain creams intended for combination to oily skin contain astringent agents, such as bamboo extract, thereby ensuring a dual function: hydrating and mattifying.
Once or twice a week, treat your skin to an exfoliation session, using for example alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), such as mandelic acid or tartaric acid, which are effective for enlarged pores. These molecules accelerate cellular renewal, prevent keratin buildup in hair follicles and improve the uniformity of the skin’s texture. In addition, a weekly purifying mask, based on clay or charcoal, can help absorb excess sebum and unclog pores.
Finally, the daily sun protection remains essential: UV rays degrade collagen and elastin fibres, which exacerbates the loss of dermal support and makes pores more noticeable.
Which cosmetic procedures are effective for tightening dilated pores?
Certain treatments can be carried out by professionals to attenuate the appearance of dilated pores.
HydraFacial.
HydraFacial is a non-invasive, multi-step procedure aimed at improving skin texture and reducing the appearance of enlarged pores. The protocol relies on a gentle suction system which removes impurities and excess sebum accumulated in the follicles, while exfoliating dead epidermal cells. This dual action unclogs the pores, reducing their diameter. Various serums are then applied to the skin, most often containing antioxidants, humectants and peptides, and finally a cream is used to seal in hydration. HydraFacial is considered suitable for all skin types, including the most sensitive, but is not recommended for pregnant women or individuals undergoing medication that weakens the skin barrier (isotretinoin, anticoagulants...).
Chemical peeling.
In professional clinics, chemical peels are carried out at higher concentrations than those for home use, allowing for a deeper, more targeted action on enlarged pores. These peels typically employ acids such as glycolic acid, salicylic acid or trichloroacetic acid (TCA). The practitioner applies the solution over the entire face or on specific areas, where it induces a controlled exfoliation of the epidermis, promoting cellular renewal and stimulating collagen. This process helps to reduce the appearance of pores by improving the skin’s elasticity and firmness. The depth of the peel and choice of acid are calibrated to minimise irritation risks while maximising aesthetic benefits. Results become apparent after a few sessions, with a more even skin texture and a gradual reduction in pore dilation.
The interest in peels with glycolic acid to reduce pore size was demonstrated in a study involving 40 patients with acne. They underwent four peel sessions spaced three weeks apart using 50% glycolic acid. At the end of these sessions, an overall improvement in acne was observed, as well as a reduction in pore size in 67.5% of the patients. Despite their benefits, it is important to note that chemical peels carried out in clinics are not suitable for pregnant women, individuals with sensitive skin or those with an active skin condition.
Laser.
Lasers are another option to improve skin texture and reduce the appearance of enlarged pores. In clinics, fractional or ablative lasers, such as the fractional CO₂ laser or the Er:YAG laser, are often used. These induce a localized temperature increase within the epidermis and dermis, stimulating collagen and elastin production. This stimulation strengthens the walls of hair follicles and reduces pore opening. After a few sessions spaced several weeks apart, the skin is visibly smoother, the texture more uniform, and pores appear tightened.
A clinical study conducted at Shanghai Ninth People's Hospital examined the efficacy of fractional laser in reducing enlarged pores. Seventeen participants presenting with seborrhoea and visibly dilated pores were recruited. The protocol consisted of randomly treating one half of the face with a fractional laser, using the other half as a control. Each session comprised two passes of micro-beams at energies of 38–40 mJ and 20–24 mJ for the first and second pass respectively, across four sessions administered at fortnightly intervals. The quantitative evaluation of the number of pores was performed before treatment and two months after the final session using the VISIA-CR system, which automatically detects pores based on their diameter and circular morphology. The results showed a significant improvement on the treated side, confirming the effectiveness of fractional laser in tightening enlarged pores and enhancing skin texture.
Comparison of the average number of pores before and after laser treatment and quantification of the reduction in pore count.
Source: LIN X. & al. Randomized split‐face, controlled comparison of treatment with 1565‐nm nonablative fractional laser for enlarged facial pores. British Journal of Dermatology (2018).
Radiofrequency.
Finally, radiofrequency is another popular treatment for enlarged pores. This non-invasive technique uses electromagnetic waves to heat the deeper layers of the skin, thereby stimulating the production of collagen and elastin. This stimulation of the connective tissue strengthens the firmness of the epidermis and dermis, allowing enlarged pores to appear tighter. In practice, an applicator delivers the energy in a targeted manner to the face, sometimes combined with a cooling system to protect the epidermis and improve comfort during the session. The results are progressive and generally require several sessions, spaced a few weeks apart, to achieve a smoothing of skin texture and a reduction in the visibility of pores.
A recent clinical study investigated the efficacy of non-ablative monopolar radiofrequency (NMRF) for pore tightening. Seventeen participants with enlarged pores received two NMRF sessions four weeks apart. Researchers assessed pore volume and size using 3D imaging systems and dermoscopic analyses, complemented by a clinical evaluation by two dermatologists based on blinded photographs. The treatment was well tolerated, with no notable adverse effects, and produced favourable outcomes, indicating that NMRF is a safe and effective option for reducing pore enlargement.
Another study assessed the efficacy of a monopolar radiofrequency device on 12 patients. Each participant underwent five sessions at two-week intervals. The results showed a significant reduction in sebum production, from a baseline average of 39.17 μm/cm² to 8.42 μm/cm² after treatment. Furthermore, one month after the final session, participants’ self-assessments indicated an improvement in pore diameter in 83% of cases (33% rated as excellent, 50% as moderate), accompanied by perceived enhancements in skin texture and firmness. Although these are self-reported evaluations rather than objective measurements, the findings support the idea that radiofrequency could be a promising option for addressing enlarged pores.
Initial and follow-up photographs taken one month after the final treatment session with a monopolar RF device.
Source: LEE S. J. & al. Can a radiofrequency device reduce the pore size? Lasers in Medical Science (2022).
Sources
CHAN H.-L. & al. The effect of glycolic acid on the treatment of acne in Asian skin. Dermatologic Surgery (1997).
SEO S. J. & al. Facial pores: Definition, causes, and treatment options. Dermatologic Surgery (2015).
LIN X. & al. Randomized split‐face, controlled comparison of treatment with 1565‐nm nonablative fractional laser for enlarged facial pores. British Journal of Dermatology (2018).
LEE S. J. & al. Can a radiofrequency device reduce the pore size? Lasers in Medical Science (2022).
CHEN Y. & al. Potential role of inflammaging mediated by the complement system in enlarged facial pores. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2023).
JANTANAPORNCHAI N. & al. Nonablative monopolar radiofrequency for the reduction of facial pores and sebum excretion in Thai patients: A novel approach. Lasers in Surgery and Medicine (2023).
