Everything you need to know about the T-zone of the face.

The T-zone or mid-facial region is a term used in cosmetics to refer to the central part of the face, namely the forehead, the bridge of the nose and the chin. This area is known to be prone to unsightly shininess, dilated pores and blackheads that are unattractive. Indeed, the amount of sebum excreted varies individually from the anatomical site.

Why does our skin shine in the T-zone?

This phenomenon can be explained by the large volume of sebaceous glands in these areas, which are responsible for the synthesis and secretion of sebum that contributes to the formation of the hydrolipidic film. Indeed, the face is equipped with 400 to 900 glands per cm2 compared to 50 to 100 glands per cm2 on the limbs. However, a study has shown that the nose region has a lower number of sebaceous glands compared to the chin. These observations suggest that the sebaceous glands in the nose exhibit high activity and sebum productivity.

Beyond the differences in the number of sebaceous glands and their productivity rate, a correlation between the size/number of pores and sebum production has been suggested. The chin and cheeks have a large number of small-diameter pores compared to the nose. Furthermore, the malar region, with a lower sebum content, presents a higher number of large pores.

Thus, this definition of the zone is increasingly being challenged with contradicting studies. Indeed, an analysis of sebum excretion and distribution on the face has recently been established. The highest sebum levels (< 180 mg/cm2) would be located in the centre of the forehead and in the nasolabial region (sides of the nose), while the lowest values are around the eye contour, the lateral part of the cheeks and the chin (> 50 mg/cm2). Another study observes that the highest quantities of sebum were located on the forehead and the chin.

Due to an excessive production of sebum, multiple impacts on the skin can occur, such as making the pores more visible and causing comedones or spots. Indeed, studies have shown that the lipid composition of open comedones and closed comedones in a patient with acne is richer in squalene peroxide, derived from the oxidation of squalene (a component of sebum), which is highly comedogenic for the skin.

To avoid issues with shininess, the solution lies in adopting certain practices and using products that will have a astringent effect to tighten the pores and prevent oiliness throughout the day, sebum-regulating agents to control sebum production, and absorbent agents that will absorb the excess sebum present on the skin's surface, thereby mattifying it. Here are some tips to follow to mattify this area and reduce shininess:

• Clean the T-zone preferably twice a day: Wash your face daily in the morning and before going to bed to remove the oily sensation and all impurities to minimise pore blockage and thus prevent the formation of blemishes. This action also prepares the skin to receive other more specific treatments. Opt for a gentle cleanser with a gel texture like the purifying cleansing gel to eliminate excess sebum and dirt without drying out the skin.

  In the evening, do not fall asleep with makeup on. When cosmetics are left on the skin all night, they can mix with dirt, sebum, and bacteria, and clog the pores, which can then appear larger the next morning upon waking. Remove your makeup using a micellar water or a makeup removing oil before continuing with the cleansing gel;

• Apply a suitable floral lotion for the T-zone: This lotion will help to reduce the appearance of pores. Avoid those based on alcohol, which can dry out the skin and increase sebum production. For instance, thepeppermint hydrosol is ideal for mattifying the T-zone due to its purifying and astringent properties;

• Invest in a serum to mattify the T-zone: Before applying a moisturising cream, use a balancing serum rich in active ingredients with a mattifying action such as azelaic acid which will help to refine the skin texture, limit shininess and provide a matte finish;

• Maintaining skin hydration: One of the most common mistakes made by individuals with a shiny T-zone is the belief that it's better not to moisturise the skin for fear of making it greasier. On the contrary, moisturising products help the skin to reduce the shiny effect. Without this, the skin would react by overproducing sebum for protection. Look for a cream with a light formula, predominantly water-based, non-comedogenic and composed of sebum-regulating, purifying and mattifying active ingredients (zinc, salicylic acid, bamboo extract...) like our purifying face cream. This treatment will provide the necessary hydration without promoting spots and while balancing the greasy effect. However, avoid moisturising treatments with waxes or mineral oils, as they will increase sebum secretion, clog pores and promote the appearance of comedones;

• Wearing a sunscreen every day: Sun damage not only increases the long-term risk of developing cancer and wrinkles, but it can also dry out the skin and thus enlarge the pores. Use a sun product with a SPF of at least 30 and remember to apply it at least 15 minutes before going out;

• Experimenting with the purifying mask : Add to your skincare routine a purifying mask based on charcoal or green clay to help balance sebum production and deeply unclog pores at a rate of one application per week to prevent shine and blemishes;

• Adopt a mattifying makeup: Once the foundation is applied, cover the T-zone with a veil of mattifying finishing powder to reduce shine by absorbing excess sebum and thus even out the complexion. Supplement this with the use of blotting papers throughout the day if you notice any shine. Dab your face gently with absorbent paper to mechanically remove excess sebum. You can also mist the face with a purifying spray to rebalance sebum production and minimise the appearance of shine and blemishes.

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• KITSONGSERMTHON J. & al. Comparative study of facial sebum production, pore size, and skin hydration between Thai women with oily and dry skin. Skin Research and Technology (2019).

• MERCURIO D. G. & co. Utilisation of advanced imaging techniques for the characterisation of oily skin. Frontiers in Physiology (2019).

• RAWLINGS A. V. & al. Facial skin mapping: from single point bio-instrumental evaluation to continuous visualisation of skin hydration, barrier function, skin surface pH, and sebum in different ethnic skin types. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2019).