How to care for your skin in autumn?

The facial cleansing is one of the essential steps in any skincare routine, whatever the time of year. It eliminates impurities that accumulate on the skin’s surface and helps maintain a healthy skin barrier.

In the morning, during autumn, the skin is generally not saturated with sebum and sweat, as it can be in high summer. With reduced overnight perspiration, a gentle cleanse suffices to revive the epidermis without irritating it. The application of a thermal water mist, a hydrosol or a lotion light helps to remove fine dust particles, preparing the skin to receive its treatments. In most cases, there is no need to resort to a foaming cleanser on autumn mornings, as this may disturb an hydrolipidic film already weakened by the cold and wind that regain their influence during this season.

In the evening, however, cleansing must be more thorough. Make-up residues, a habit often resumed as the new term approaches, pollution and possible sun creams require a double cleansing. This method, inherited from Asian skincare routines, first employs an oil-based phase to dissolve lipid substances (sebum, sunscreen filters, make-up) and then a water-based cleanser to remove hydrophilic impurities. Double cleansing ensures skin that is impeccably clean and better able to absorb subsequent treatments. This step is particularly important in autumn, when the skin has needs to regenerate after the summer to preserve its radiance.

To note : Choose your cleanser according to your skin type. For instance, if you have oily skin, opt for a cleansing gel instead. If your skin is prone to dryness, a cleansing milk or a dermatological bar will be more suitable.

By the end of summer, the skin has often endured an excess of UV radiation, which triggers the production of free radicals that accelerate skin ageing and dull the complexion. Autumn is therefore the ideal season to help it regenerate and restore its radiance. While hydration remains crucial, it is also time to provide the skin with targeted support through antioxidants, molecules capable of neutralising the free radicals present in cutaneous tissues. Antioxidants are compounds naturally found in the skin that act as a protective shield. However, when free radical production becomes excessive, the skin’s antioxidant reserves may not suffice, leading to a state of oxidative stress.

It is therefore beneficial to support the skin by supplying it with antioxidants topically. The vitamin C, for example, is one of the most commonly used antioxidants in cosmetics: it stimulates collagen production and helps to even out complexion by limiting melanin oxidation. The resveratrol, extracted from the vine, or even the vitamin E, which is liposoluble, protect the cell membrane from external aggressions. Incorporated into an autumn routine, these active ingredients help the skin regain its vitality while laying the groundwork for winter.

Most often, antioxidants are used in the morning in serum form, before the moisturiser. They strengthen the skin's defence against pollution and daily aggressors, which are very common in urban areas. In the evening, it is possible to alternate with other regenerating actives, such as retinol, which, in addition to its antioxidant properties, acts by stimulating cellular renewal.

With the arrival of autumn, the skin undergoes a physiological change related to fluctuations in temperature and humidity. After summer, we observe a decrease in the hydration of the stratum corneum as well as a gradual reduction in sebum production. This natural lipid film plays a crucial role in protecting the skin’s barrier. Its reduction renders the skin more vulnerable and prone to tightness. A study carried out with several hundred participants across different seasons highlighted this phenomenon, as shown in the table below.

Hydration is an essential practice during the autumn season to help the skin retain its comfort and suppleness.

Thus, in an autumn skincare routine, adding a moisturising serum can make all the difference. Formulated with active ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, renowned for its ability to hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water, glycerine or even polyglutamic acid, this product helps to maintain an optimal water level in skin cells. However, the true autumn hydration cornerstone remains the moisturiser. Unlike in summer, when lighter textures suffice, the skin now welcomes richer formulas capable of deeply nourishing and restoring the hydrolipidic film. Creams containing ceramides, essential fatty acids or plant butters provide a dual benefit: they hydrate and strengthen the skin barrier to minimise insensible water loss.

It is important to select your moisturising cream according to your skin type: a lightweight formulation for combination to oily skin, and a richer formulation for dry skin.

In autumn, the days grow shorter and light levels drop, which can give the impression that sun protection is no longer necessary. Yet UV rays, although less intense than in summer, remain present and continue to affect the skin. UVA rays in particular penetrate deeply into the dermis and promote premature ageing. Additionally, certain conditions such as hyperpigmentation, acne or rosacea can be exacerbated by light. Finally, UV protection remains essential to reduce the risk of skin cancers, notably melanoma, for which chronic exposure to UV radiation is the primary cause.

In autumn, we therefore recommend that you continue to apply a sunscreen.

A day cream with SPF 30 is generally sufficient for daily use in autumn, especially if you spend little time outdoors. To ensure proper protection, apply the equivalent of three finger-lengths of sun cream to your face and neck, which corresponds to four passes of sunscreen stick if you choose this format.

With the arrival of autumn, the skin gradually transforms. Fluctuations in temperature and drier air lead to a slowing of cellular renewal, favouring the build-up of dead cells on the surface of the epidermis. The stratum corneum then becomes thicker and the skin may appear dull and rough, losing the radiance it had gained during summer. Indeed, a study involving 14 volunteers demonstrated that skin tends to be thicker and more uneven in winter than in summer. The researchers took measurements in January and June on the participants’ arms and highlighted an increase in epidermal thickness and roughness during the winter months, as shown in the figure below.

Regular exfoliation of the skin helps to counteract this phenomenon and prepare it to withstand the rigours of winter.

Mechanical exfoliation, performed with scrubs containing fine particles, can be beneficial but should preferably be carried out with products containing micro-grains, so as not to weaken the skin barrier, which is already put to the test by cold and wind. Once to twice a week is sufficient, and sensitive skin types may limit it to once to avoid any irritation. Chemical exfoliations based on fruit acids, such as the AHAs, BHAs or PHAs, are particularly suited to this season. They gently remove dead skin cells while stimulating cell renewal. These active ingredients also promote better penetration of subsequent skincare products, optimising their effectiveness. Skin exfoliation is best incorporated into the evening routine, before serums and moisturisers, to allow the skin to regenerate overnight.

At the onset of autumn, many lament the gradual fading of their summer tan. The skin’s natural epidermal renewal, combined with the slowdown in melanin production once sun exposure ceases, leads to a loss of the golden radiance acquired during the summer. Yet there are several approaches to prolong this tan and maintain a healthy complexion without UV exposure. Some plant oils, such as buriti oil, are particularly promising owing to their high carotenoid content, notably rich in beta-carotene. These pigments impart a subtle golden tint to the skin while acting as antioxidants. Unlike self-tanners, they do not induce chemical pigmentation of the skin but simply enhance its radiance. They are generally used in combination with a moisturiser, as their undiluted texture can be too rich for certain skin types.

Another convenient and versatile option is bronzing drops. They are added directly to your day cream and allow you to adjust the tan’s intensity based on the number of drops used. Their effect is gradual and reversible, which allows for a customised result. Finally, the self-tanners allow you to achieve a natural tan without sun exposure. Their key ingredient, dihydroxyacetone (DHA), reacts with the amino acids in the stratum corneum to produce temporary pigmentation lasting about a week, without affecting melanin. However, exercise caution when using a self-tanner : apply it zone by zone using long strokes to avoid spots or demarcations.

• DIFFEY B. Factors that influence the quality and quantity of terrestrial solar UV radiation. Sun Protection, a risk management approach (2017).

• VELEBNY V. & al. Seasonal variations in the skin parameters of Caucasian women from Central Europe. Skin Research & Technology (2020).

• MAITI R. & al. Effect of seasonal change on the biomechanical and physical properties of the human skin. Journal of the Mechanical Behavior of Biomedical Materials (2022).