Sensitive skin and the sun: how to protect it?

The sensitive skin, also known as reactive skin, is a skin type characterised by tingling, warmth and itching triggered by exposure to various factors. These may include chemical agents, such as hard water or certain skincare products, or physical factors like heat, cold, wind or UV rays. Unlike allergic skin, the pathophysiology of sensitive skin is not immune-mediated, meaning its reactivity is not linked to an immune response but to heightened nervous and vascular sensitivity. It shows an exaggerated response to stimuli that are tolerated.

Among the main causes of skin sensitivity, there is a disruption of barrier function, leading to reduced protection against external stressors, including solar radiation. Dysbiosis, a shift in the skin microbiota, may also be involved, or genetic factors. When sensitive skin is exposed to an intolerable factor, it triggers a complex inflammatory process involving various inflammatory mediators (TNF-α, IL-1α, IL-1β, IL-8, PGD2…) and leading to vasodilation and redness.

Studies show that fair skin, more vulnerable to the sun than darker skin due to lower melanin synthesis, is more prone to skin sensitivity. Protecting it from UV rays thus poses a dual challenge.

To protect sensitive skin from the sun, the basic recommendations remain the same as for other skin types: wear covering garments and a hat, avoid direct exposure for several hours, especially between 11:00 and 16:00 when UV rays are most intense, and apply a sufficient amount of sunscreen.

However, choosing a sunscreen can be complex for sensitive skin because some UV filters may irritate. Essential in sunscreens, these filters reflect some UV rays and absorb the rest, converting it into harmless heat. They can be organic, or chemical, and mineral (titanium dioxide and zinc oxide). They are well tolerated by sensitive skin. However, unless used as nanoparticles, they tend to leave a white cast, making them less suited to darker skin tones.

It may be beneficial to choose a sunscreen that combines mineral and organic filters. Although criticised, not all organic filters require avoidance: some are mild enough for sensitive skin. Bemotrizinol (INCI: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine), Iscotrizinol (INCI: Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone) or Ensulizole (INCI: Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid) are non-irritating and suit sensitive skin. However, some chemical filters are not recommended for sensitive skin. These include oxybenzone (INCI: Benzophenone-3), avobenzone (INCI: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane) and PABA (INCI: Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA), which are known to be irritating and may trigger skin allergies.

Other ingredients to avoid in your sunscreen if your skin is sensitive: fragrances and essential oils. Added to provide a pleasant scent or cooling sensation, these molecules rank among the main causes of irritation in sensitive skin. Even natural fragrances contain potentially allergenic compounds such as linalool, geraniol, or limonene. These can weaken the skin barrier and cause redness and itching. Essential oils concentrate many active compounds that, although soothing or antiseptic, can trigger inflammatory reactions under UV exposure. Some oils, such as lemon or mandarin, are photosensitising, increasing skin sensitivity to the sun. Manufacturers exclude them from sunscreens as a precaution. We recommend formulas free of fragrance and essential oils.

Good to know : The term "hypoallergenic" on a sunscreen indicates it has been formulated to minimise the risk of skin allergy, without ensuring zero risk, as this claim is not regulated by legislation. However, when used with the labels "fragrance-free" or "suitable for sensitive skin", it helps reduce adverse reactions.

Discover here our sun-care products, suitable for all skin types, including the most sensitive.

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