Profile: Dihydroxyacetone (DHA)
Details
Property
Self-tanning: Imparting a tanned effect to the skin, which is proportional to the amount of DHA incorporated into the formulation, by reacting with the amino acids of the cells in the corneal layer (superficial layer of the epidermis) to form a special brown pigment called "melanoidin" (Maillard reaction).
Applications
Facial Care (mists, serums, face creams, masks);
Body Care (creams/gels/body milks, tanning foams);
Hair Care (hair lotions, hair mists, oils, hair dyes).
Method of Preservation
DHA is sensitive to heat. It should be kept away from air and moisture, and stored between +2°C and +8°C.
Contraindications, Usage Precautions
Approved for use in self-tanning products by the FDA and the European Union's Scientific Committee, the DHA is considered safe for consumer health. Indeed, no bothersome side effects are currently known from the topical application of DHA, due to the fact that it does not penetrate beyond the stratum corneum. However, although it is generally well tolerated by most, it can sometimes cause contact dermatitis (spots, redness, irritation). The best course of action is to perform a skin test on a small area of the body before a widespread application, particularly in cases of sensitive or easily irritated skin.
However, all areas of the body covered by mucous membranes should avoid it (mouth, eyes, etc.), particularly if you are applying it by spraying (tanning booth, mist, etc.). Indeed, inhalation can cause DNA damage and thus pose a risk of cancer. Additionally, DHA can stain the skin up to 24 hours after its application, so remember to wash your hands thoroughly after each use.
It is not recommended to use α-hydroxy acids (AHA) if you are applying a DHA-based self-tanner, as they can accelerate its degradation. Finally, this method of tanning without sun exposure does not trigger the production of melanin and therefore does not offer any protective effect against UV radiation, like that provided by melanin. It is strongly advised to apply a broad-spectrum sun protection with an SPF of at least 30.
