Identity Profile: Erythrulose
Commonly known as: L-erythrulose, S-1,3,4-trihydroxybutan-2-one, L-glycero-tetrulose, glycerotetrulose, tetrulose, erythrulose.
I.N.C.I. list name: Erythrulose.
Extraction process: Aerobic fermentation of the Gluconobacter bacteria followed by several stages of purification (biotransformation).
Source: Sugar cane.
Botanical name: Poaceae.
Family: Saccharum officinarum.
Extracted part of the plant: Stems.
Origin, provenance: /
Chemical properties: Natural ketonic sugar (tetrose); Molar mass: 120.104 g/mol; Soluble in water; Insoluble in oil; Recommended pH: between 2.0 and 5.0; Density: 1.39 g/cm3.
Properties: True solution, emulsion, suspension.
Required dosage in cosmetic products: Found in concentrations between 1 and 5%.
Function: Tanning agent.
Specificities: Self-tanning, moisturising.
Benefits: All skin types.
Details
Properties
Self-tanning: Achieving a natural tan by forming high molecular weight, brown-coloured polymers (melanoidins) on the skin through the conversion of erythrulose with the free primary or secondary amino groups of keratin (Maillard reaction) in the upper layers of the epidermis;
Moisturiser: Retaining water molecules within the epidermis to keep the skin hydrated and supple.
Applications
Facial and Body Care (serums/lotions/foams/self-tanning sprays, sun creams, day creams, body lotions);
Makeups (foundations, CC creams).
Method of Preservation
Store in a dry place, protected from sunlight, heat and humidity, and at a temperature between 2 and 8°C.
Contraindications, Usage Precautions
Erythrulose is considered safe for cosmetic use according to the literature.
