Bakuchiol, a naturally derived alternative to retinol?

Several clinical studies have demonstrated the potential of bakuchiol and retinol in managing skin imperfections, yet none have directly compared them, which limits the conclusions. One such study assessed the efficacy of a 1% bakuchiol formulation against a salicylic acid-based product in sixty subjects with mild to moderate acne. Participants applied one of the treatments twice daily for six weeks, and acne severity was measured using the tool Global Acne Grading System. Another study, undertaken in 2009 by Natakankitkul et al., evaluated a formulation containing 0.2% retinol against a cream with a vitamin C derivative. In this trial, 45 individuals with acne applied one of the products once daily for eight weeks. The results of both studies, presented below, shed light on retinol and bakuchiol, but a direct comparison remains difficult since their impact on skin imperfections was not assessed within the same protocol.

Is bakuchiol as effective as retinol for attenuating brown spots?

Bakuchiol and retinol both demonstrate significant properties for reducing pigmented spots. Bakuchiol operates at different stages of melanogenesis: it inhibits tyrosinase activity, the enzyme catalysing the conversion of tyrosine into melanin, and reduces the expression of TRP-1 and TRP-2 proteins, which are involved in the maturation and stabilisation of melanin within melanosomes. Meanwhile, retinol exerts an effect on hyperpigmentation via through both direct and indirect mechanisms. It can inhibit the expression of tyrosinase and TRP-1 and TRP-2 proteins, which slows melanin production, but also influences pigment distribution in the epidermis by promoting a more uniform dispersion of melanin granules within keratinocytes.

The aforementioned clinical study, conducted on 44 participants who applied a cream containing 0.5% retinol or 0.5% bakuchiol daily for twelve weeks, also evaluated the effect of these formulations on pigmentation. The results demonstrated a significant improvement in skin tone uniformity in both groups, slightly more pronounced in the retinol group.

Bakuchiol is indeed establishing itself as a plant-based alternative to retinol and appears capable of addressing the same concerns.

The bakuchiol is an overall gentler active ingredient than retinol.

Retinol, despite its recognised efficacy, is frequently associated with adverse effects, such as redness, tingling sensations, increased dryness and visible skin flaking. These effects are directly linked to its mechanism of action: by binding to nuclear RAR (Retinoic Acid Receptors) and RXR (Retinoid X Receptors), retinol triggers an intracellular signalling cascade that modulates keratinocyte proliferation, cell differentiation and collagen synthesis. However, this intense stimulation of epidermal renewal can temporarily disrupt the skin barrier and increase transepidermal water loss. This phenomenon is most commonly observed in sensitive skin, although it can affect all skin types.

In comparison, bakuchiol is generally better tolerated. Although the risk of irritation can never be entirely excluded, as with any cosmetic active ingredient, studies report a lower incidence of side effects. The bakuchiol can even be used by individuals prone to rosacea, who often have very sensitive skin. The previously mentioned clinical trial, comparing the efficacy of a 0.5% bakuchiol cream with that of a formulation containing 0.5% retinol, also examined the tolerance of both products and specifically assessed the occurrence of flaking and stinging sensations. The charts below, taken from the study, confirm the superior cutaneous tolerance of bakuchiol compared to retinol.