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Informations sur le rétinol.

Here's what you need to know about retinol.

Retinol is a derivative of Vitamin A. It is an active ingredient that has long been criticised due to its potential to irritate and dry out the epidermis. Today, subject to regulation, it is increasingly found, primarily for its excellent benefits against signs of ageing. Find here all the information you need to know about this active ingredient.

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A brief history of retinol.

The retinol, retinoic acid and retinal are the three available forms of vitamin A. These molecules belong to the family of first-generation retinoids . Their history can be traced back to ancient Egypt, where beef liver compresses (containing retinol) were used to treat blindness, hence their names which derive from the "retina" of the eye.

It was in 1931 that the retinol molecule was first isolated by Swiss chemist Paul KARRER, from mackerel liver oil. The first study using tretinoin (or all-trans retinoic acid) to treat acne was published in 1943. The effectiveness of this organic compound on signs of ageing was subsequently demonstrated in the 1980 by American dermatologist Albert KLIGMAN.

However, this acidic form of vitamin A, tretinoin, is among the substances banned in cosmetic products according to European Regulations due to its irritating potential. This active ingredient is only available on prescription to treat severe acne.

Several studies have demonstrated a better tolerance of topical retinol application compared to tretinoin. In this regard, the European Regulation permits the use of retinol in a cosmetic product at a maximum concentration of 0.3% in a non-rinse product.

Furthermore, retinol is a precursor to retinoic acid. When applied to the skin, it is oxidised into retinal and then metabolised into retinoic acid, its active form that is capable of effectively combating skin ageing.

What are the benefits of retinol for the skin?

Retinol is now recognised as one of the most effective compounds to counteract the degradation of the skin's support fibres and thus combat loss of firmness. Indeed, when incorporated into skincare, it stimulates the production of collagen and elastin.

Furthermore, retinol is antioxidant. It prevents the appearance of ageing signs by neutralising free radicals. As a reminder, these are highly reactive molecules generated by various factors (stress, pollution, smoking...) that degrade the proteins and healthy cells of the skin, accelerating its ageing.

Retinol also regulates the overproduction of melanin, enabling it todiminish the appearance of pigmentation spots that may emerge over the years.

Finally, retinol exerts a keratolytic action , eliminating dead cells on the skin's surface, unclogging pores and preventing the emergence of blemishes. It is therefore an excellent ally for taking care of combination to oily skin.

What are the benefits of applying retinol to the hair?

Many cosmetic actives initially intended for the skin can bring benefits when applied to hair, such as niacinamide or vitamin C. The same goes for retinol:

  • Retinol purifies the scalp.

    Similar to the skin on our face, the scalp requires good hydration. It is important to remove impurities that clog the pores to prevent the hair follicle from being suffocated by the sebaceous gland, inhibiting the growth of healthy hair. Thanks to its keratolytic action, retinol eliminates dead cells present on the scalp and promotes cellular renewal. Italso minimises the action of the sebaceous glands and therefore the production of sebum for a purified scalp.

  • Retinol promotes hair growth.

    Studies have indeed demonstrated the ability of retinol to stimulate hair growth. This action is furthermore amplified when retinol is combined with another active ingredient, minoxidil. Offering promising results, this duo could even present itself as a potential treatment against alopecia.

Retinol: Instructions for use and contraindications.

Even though it is now regulated and controlled, retinol remains a substance that can potentially cause irritation. Consequently, this active ingredient is not recommended for sensitive and reactive skin types.

Before using a retinol-based skincare product, we advise you to perform a skin tolerance test. Apply a few drops of the product in question to the crook of your arm or on your wrist and wait a few seconds. If you observe a significant skin reaction, do not apply the product to your face.

Sometimes, the skin requires a period of adjustment and it is normal for it to initially show slight irritations. You can space out the applications, for instance to every other day or every three days.

As a precaution, the use of retinoids during pregnancy and breastfeeding is not recommended.

Retinol is a substancethat is photosensitive: it can cause skin irritations following exposure to sunlight. Therefore, it is preferable to use it in theevening, before going to bed. The following morning, apply a sunscreen suitable for your skin type.

Which of our products contain retinol?

We have developed five treatments concentrated in retinol.

  • To combat skin ageing and prevent skin sagging, the wrinkle & fine lines serumcontains 0.3% retinol. It is formulated with 99% natural origin ingredients. It is particularly suitable for mature skin. We advise against its use on sensitive and reactive skin.

  • The neck and décolleté serum is composed of retinol (0.2%) and borage oil, known for its firming properties. This treatment smooths the skin of the neck and décolleté. It can also be used locally on other parts of the body.

  • Our firming face cream with 0.2% retinol and tsubaki oil is enriched with tightening agents to combat the appearance of wrinkles and make the skin more plump. It stimulates the production of collagen and elastin fibres to prevent signs of skin ageing.

  • The Firming Tonic Lotion contains 0.1% retinol and Damask rose extract. It is applied after skin cleansing, to rebalance the skin's pH and delay the appearance of wrinkles. It is composed of 99% natural origin ingredients.

  • The wrinkle and blemish serum combines the densifying action of retinol (0.3%) with the anti-bacterial action of bakuchiol (1%) to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and correct blemishes. Synthesised by endemic Australian plants, the plant polypeptides it contains are capable of working in synergy with retinol to promote the synthesis of type I collagen. They thus help to reduce the depth of wrinkles and densify the skin. These peptides also contribute to maintaining a thick epidermis, which plays its role as a shield against the external environment.

Sources:

  • LIN C. B. & al. A novel anti-ageing mechanism for retinol: induction of dermal elastin synthesis and elastin fibre formation. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2011).

  • QUAN T. & al. Molecular basis of retinol anti-ageing properties in naturally aged human skin in vivo. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2017).

  • MONTE-ALTO-COSTA A. & al. Topical retinol attenuates stress-induced ageing signs in human skin ex vivo, throughEGFR activation viaEGF, but notERK andAP-1 activation. Experimental Dermatology (2019).

  • KYU HAN K. & al. The additive effects of minoxidil and retinol on human hair growth in vitro. Biological and Pharmaceutical Bulletin (2007).

  • TOSTI A. & al. The role of vitamins and minerals in hair loss: a review. Dermatology and Therapy (2019).

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