What You Should Know About Bakuchiol

In 1966, Bakuchiol was isolated for the first time by Indian chemists (Mehta, Hayak and Dev) from the seeds and leaves of Psoralea corylifolia, also called Bakuchi or Babchi. This edible plant, native to India, has been widely used in Ayurvedic beliefs and traditional Chinese medicine for its beneficial effects on the skin. The oil extracted from it is effective against oxidation, inflammation and certain bacteria and fungi, and is used to treat various skin conditions such as ringworm, scabies and psoriasis.

In 2007, bakuchiol was used in cosmetics for the first time. Several studies have defined it as a natural alternative to retinol, which is why it is also called "bio-retinol" or "phyto-retinol". Bakuchiol thus makes it possible to effectively combat the signs of skin aging without the side effects of retinol (irritation, stability problems, photosensitization, etc.).

For several years, Bakuchiol has been included in many skin care products due to the following properties and benefits:

• Antioxidant: Bakuchiol protects skin cells from oxidation and photoaging. To do this, it neutralizes free radicals, which are unstable, highly reactive molecules responsible for the breakdown of healthy body cells and proteins, accelerating the aging of the body. Free radicals are generated by all sorts of factors, the most common being pollution, UV rays and smoking. Bakuchiol restricts the proliferation of these molecules, blocking their harmful effects on the skin.

• Anti-inflammatory: Bakuchiol inhibits the cascade of production of inflammatory molecules.

• Antibacterial: Bakuchiol combats Propionibacterium acnes. This microorganism is involved in the development of skin blemishes. In addition, Bakuchiol regulates sebum production by inhibiting the overactivity of the sebaceous glands.

• It ensures an even complexion. Bakuchiol penetrates deep into the skin and helps to reduce the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation areas.

• It stimulates the production of type I collagen, an important protein in the dermis that gives the skin firmness and smoothness. Thus, it effectively fights the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines and softens existing wrinkles and lines.

Bakuchiol is therefore recommended for more or less mature skin to soften existing wrinkles and/or slow skin aging, and for oily skin with blemishes to limit sebum secretion and fight proliferating bacteria that cause pimples.

Currently, there are no reports of side effects associated with the cosmetic use of Bakuchiol. As a mild ingredient, it is tolerated by all skin types, even the most sensitive, unlike retinol.

Since it is not photosensitizing, it does not trigger skin reactions after sun exposure. Therefore, it can be used during the morning beauty routine.

We have developed the serum for skin impurities with 1% Bakuchiol as well as vegetable hazelnut oil, which is known to regulate sebum production and rebalance the hydrolipidic film. This completely natural care is suitable for blemished and acne-prone skin. Note: Even though this serum is not photosensitizing (it does not increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun's UV rays), due to its rather rich texture, we recommend using it rather in the evening, at the end of the skincare routine.

In addition, the Wrinkles and Blemishes Serum combines the densifying action of Retinol (0.3%) with the antibacterial action of Bakuchiol (1%) to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and correct blemishes. The plant polypeptides can interact with retinol to promote the synthesis of type I collagen. In this way, they help to reduce the depth of wrinkles and tighten the skin. These peptides also help maintain a thick epidermis, which performs its function as a protective shield against the outside world.

• BOJANOWSKI K. & al. Bakuchiol: a retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2014).  

• REITER P. & al. Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing Clinical Trial. British Journal of Dermatology (2019).

• LEVY S. & al. Clinical Evaluation of a Nature-Based Bakuchiol Anti-Aging Moisturizer for Sensitive Skin. The Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (2020).