Bakuchiol: a cosmetic active that poses risks?

What are the risks of bakuchiol?

Bakuchiol is often presented as a plant-based alternative to retinol, reputed to be better tolerated by sensitive skin. But is this reputation founded? Can bakuchiol be used on all skin types, including highly reactive ones or during pregnancy? And does it pose a risk of photosensitisation? We address these questions in this article.

Published on July 21, 2025, by Maylis, Chemical Engineer — 5 min of reading

Essential information about bakuchiol.

The bakuchiol is a plant-derived compound extracted mainly from the seeds and leaves of Psoralea corylifolia, a plant used for centuries in traditional Chinese and Ayurvedic medicine. Although often presented as a natural alternative to retinol, bakuchiol does not share the same chemical structure. However, it exhibits similar properties on the skin.

The bakuchiol is able to stimulate the expression of genes involved in collagen and elastin production, contributing to improve skin firmness and elasticity. It limits the activity of extracellular matrix-degrading enzymes such as collagenase and elastase. It exhibits antioxidant activity and reduces the appearance of brown spots. The bakuchiol is also beneficial for oily or acne-prone skin, as clinical studies have shown its ability to reduce blemishes. Finally, this ingredient has anti-inflammatory properties that soothe redness.

Does bakuchiol have any side effects?

Bakuchiol is considered a well-tolerated active ingredient for topical application.

In contrast to retinoids to which it is often compared and which can cause irritation, scaling, and redness, bakuchiol is rarely linked to adverse effects. A clinical trial with 60 women aged 40 to 65 recently highlighted this high tolerance. The cohort included 20 individuals with eczema, 20 with rosacea, and 20 who often reacted to skincare products. Participants applied a 1% bakuchiol-containing cleanser and moisturiser daily for four weeks.

At the end of the study, a significant improvement in skin appearance was observed, along with a 16% increase in skin hydration measured by corneometry. More importantly, bakuchiol treatments were well tolerated. Only two participants with eczema reported mild transient warming sensations upon application.

Although bakuchiol is well tolerated, we must acknowledge that zero risk does not exist. Rare allergy cases have been reported in the scientific literature. For example, one report describes a 23-year-old woman with seasonal rhinoconjunctivitis who developed contact dermatitis on her face, with red, swollen patches on her eyelids, after applying a cream to her eye area containing 1% of bakuchiol. Patch tests were then performed on the person’s back to identify the active ingredient, but all results were negative. Repeated application tests, consisting of applying the ingredients twice daily to the skin, were then conducted. 1% bakuchiol triggered a positive reaction and redness. To determine whether this response was isolated, five other people were tested with 1% bakuchiol and none reacted.

The allergic reactions to bakuchiol can occur, although rare. It underlines the importance of patch-testing a new product on a small area of skin before applying it to the entire face or body.

Are there any contraindications to the use of bakuchiol?

There is no contraindication to using bakuchiol in skincare.

As noted above, this ingredient is considered well tolerated, even by the sensitive skin or redness-prone skin. Moreover, the bakuchiol is not listed among ingredients to avoid during pregnancy or breastfeeding, unlike retinol with which it is compared. Another key benefit of bakuchiol is that it is not photosensitising. Unlike certain exfoliants or vitamin A derivatives, it does not increase UV sensitivity. It can be applied morning or evening. However, this should not overshadow the importance of daily sun protection. While bakuchiol does not raise sun sensitivity, we recommend using a sunscreen to guard against photodamage and cellular damage caused by UV.