Bakuchiol, a new entirely natural molecule, is recommended for the care of acne-prone skin. Promoting similar results to retinoids but better tolerated, it is also used to reduce signs of ageing, such as wrinkles and fine lines. However, does its use come with any side effects?
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What are the dangers of Bakuchiol?
Summary
- What is Bakuchiol?
- How does bakuchiol work?
- Are there any side effects to bakuchiol?
- Are there any contraindications to bakuchiol?
- Sources
Published June 20, 2022,
updated on June 20, 2024,
by
Maylis, Chemical Engineer
—
4 min read
What is Bakuchiol?
Those interested in skincare targeting ageing or skin eruptions (spots), or even brown spots, are likely already familiar with the retinol. But in this industry, which is in a constant quest for renewal, an ingredient with strikingly similar properties is beginning to make a name for itself: the bakuchiol.
This compound presents itself as a natural and less irritating alternative to retinol. Bakuchiol is thus sometimes referred to as "phyto-retinol", "natural retinol" or "green version of retinol".
Pronounced as "buh-koo-chee-all" in English, thename "bakuchiol" originates from the Sanskrit word "bakuchi", which is the plant it was extracted from (Psoralea corylifolia), a plant endemic to the Himalayan region. Although bakuchiol was first isolated in 1966, its first use in topical application did not occur until 2007 when it was introduced to the market under the brand name Sytenol A.
How does bakuchiol work?
When used topically, bakuchiol aids in restoring the imbalance characteristic of acne-prone skin, which is prone to excess sebum. Indeed, it enables the epidermis to regain and maintain its moisturising and protective barrier. Multifunctional, it also stimulates cellular renewal and boosts collagen production, essential for skin tone and elasticity. Therefore, it is recommended both for diminishing/preventing wrinkles and for its comprehensive anti-acne action .
Are there any side effects to bakuchiol?
Currently, no side effects have been reported regarding the cosmetic use of bakuchiol. Ingredient gentle, it is tolerated by all skin types, even the most sensitive and atopic, unlike retinol which can cause skin dryness, tingling, tightness, discomfort, peeling or even redness.
Are there any contraindications to bakuchiol?
There are no contraindications to this cosmetic active ingredient.
Non-photosensitising, it does not cause skin reactions following exposure to the sun. Therefore, it can be used during your morning beauty routine. In any case, every morning, do not forget to finish your routine with the application of a sunscreen suited to your skin tone.
Unlike retinoid-based cosmetic treatments, those containing bakuchiol are not contraindicated for pregnant and/or breastfeeding women.
However, it is important to clarify that bakuchiol is still in its early stages in the skincare industry. Consequently, the data available on its side effects is still quite limited.
Sources:
MARCHIO F. & al. Bakuchiol in the management of acne-affected skin. Cosmetics & Toiletries (2011).
BOJANOWSKI K. & al. Bakuchiol: A retinol-like functional compound unveiled through gene expression profiling and clinically validated to possess anti-ageing properties. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2014).
REITER P. & al. Prospective, Randomised, Double-Blind Evaluation of Topical Bakuchiol and Retinol for Facial Photoageing Clinical Trial. British Journal of Dermatology (2019).
LEVY S. & al. Clinical Evaluation of a Nature-Derived Bakuchiol Anti-Ageing Moisturiser for Sensitive Skin. The Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (2020).
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