Bakuchiol for eye-contour care?

The area of the eye contour is among the most fragile areas on the face and endures repeated strain, with an average thickness of 0.3 to 0.5 mm, compared with 1 to 1.5 mm elsewhere on the face. It also contains few sebaceous glands responsible for sebum production, resulting in a fragile hydrolipidic film. This makes the eye contour vulnerable to dehydration and external stressors. When combined with repeated movements from blinking or facial expressions, the eye contour becomes the first to show signs of aging.

The bakuchiol is an active ingredient that helps prevent and reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines around the eye contour.

Studies show that bakuchiol increases the expression of type I, III, and IV collagens in fibroblasts, whose production tends to decrease with age. At the same time, this active compound stimulates the synthesis of aquaporin 3, a protein that plays a key role in water and glycerol transport across cell membranes. This improves skin hydration and strengthens its barrier function, effects that are particularly beneficial for the eye contour.

The benefits of bakuchiol for the eye-contour area, including reduction of crow’s feet, were demonstrated in a clinical study of 17 women with sun-induced skin ageing, commonly called photoageing. In this blinded protocol, participants applied a cream containing 1% bakuchiol to the entire face twice daily for twelve weeks. Clinical evaluation recorded parameters such as wrinkles, roughness, dryness, skin firmness, and overall eye-contour appearance. The results most relevant to the eye contour are shown in the table below. They demonstrated progressive, significant improvement in these criteria.

Moreover, photographs were taken at the start and end of the study to show changes around the eye area. One of these images, highlighting a clear reduction in wrinkles in a participant, is shown below.

The benefits of bakuchiol around the eye do not stop there: this compound may reduce visibility of pigmented under-eye circles, linked to an excess deposit of melanin. Inherited, this type of under-eye circles manifests as a brown-to-black pigmentation under the lower eyelid. Although no study has evaluated bakuchiol on brown circles, this molecule is known to counter hyperpigmentation. The bakuchiol inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase, which converts tyrosine into melanin. It reduces expression of proteins associated with melanogenesis, such as TRP-1 and TRP-2.

Several clinical studies have demonstrated the benefit of using bakuchiol for pigmentation disorders. One was conducted by Sivamani and colleagues on 22 volunteers with various signs of photoageing, including uneven skin tone. For twelve weeks, participants applied a formulation containing 0.5% bakuchiol daily. Pigment intensity, measured with computer software, showed a significant decrease during the study. After twelve weeks, pigment intensity had decreased by nearly 15%.

It is conceivable that bakuchiol has a similar effect on the eye contour, diminishing the appearance of brown circles, although specific clinical studies are needed to confirm this.

Note We refer here to pigmented dark circles. This does not include vascular dark circles caused by dilation of blood vessels under the eyes or by impaired lymphatic drainage, nor hollow dark circles caused by sagging subcutaneous tissue. No known mechanism of action of bakuchiol suggests this ingredient could act on either type of dark circle.

The bakuchiol has a favourable tolerance profile, making it suitable for the eye contour.

That said, it's important to perform a tolerance test before applying a bakuchiol-containing treatment to the eye contour–a precaution for any new product. To test, apply a small amount to the inner elbow or wrist, then wait 24 to 48 hours to ensure no redness, swelling, or itching occurs. If no reaction appears, you may begin using the product around the eye. Remain cautious during initial use since this sensitive area can react even if the skin on the inner elbow remained unaffected.

• CHAUDHURI R. K. & al. Bakuchiol: A retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2014).

• SIVAMANI R. K. & al. Prospective, randomized, double‐blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. British Journal of Dermatology (2019).

• ROTSZTEJN H. & al. The eye area as the most difficult area of activity for esthetic treatment. Journal of Dermatological Treatment (2020).

• KIM S. Y. & al. UP256 inhibits hyperpigmentation by tyrosinase expression/dendrite formation via rho-dependent signaling and by primary cilium formation in melanocytes. International Journal of Molecular Science (2020).

• PRZEDNOWEK K. & al. Relationship between eye blink frequency and incremental exercise among young healthy men. International Journal of Environmental Research and Public Health (2022).

• SODHA P. & al. The use of bakuchiol in dermatology: a review of in vitro and in vivo evidence. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (2022).