Bienfaits bakuchiol cheveux.

Bakuchiol, an interesting active ingredient for hair care?

Used to slow wrinkle development and reduce blemishes, bakuchiol is an active ingredient also found in some hair care treatments. What benefits does it offer for hair and scalp? Discover it in this article.

Summary
Published July 16, 2025, updated on July 16, 2025, by Pauline, Chemical Engineer — 5 min read

What are bakuchiol’s benefits for hair?

The bakuchiol is a plant-derived active extracted from the seeds of Psoralea corylifolia, also known as babchi and bakuchi. This plant native to India plays an important role in Ayurvedic medicine and traditional Chinese pharmacopoeia. In skincare, bakuchiol has emerged in recent years as a natural alternative to retinol, sharing similar properties. However, bakuchiol differs from retinol in its improved skin tolerance: it causes less irritation, peeling, and redness, and suits sensitive skin.

To date, no scientific study has examined the hair benefits of bakuchiol.

However, some effects of bakuchiol on the skin may also benefit the scalp. Bakuchiol may be of interest for scalps prone to oiliness due to high sebum production by sebaceous glands, driven by genetic factors or hormonal imbalance. Sebum is essential to protect hair fibres from dehydration and environmental damage. In excess it makes hair look greasy and may contribute to dandruff. Bakuchiol may modulate sebaceous gland activity and help prevent seborrhoea.

Studies in vitro have shown that bakuchiol can inhibit 5α-reductase, the enzyme responsible for converting testosterone into dihydrotestosterone (DHT). DHT binds a specific cytosolic receptor and stimulates sebum production by the sebaceous glands. A study on HaCaT human keratinocytes found that bakuchiol at 10 µg/mL reduces 5α-reductase expression by 40%, an effect comparable to retinoic acid. If this property is confirmed in vivo, bakuchiol could be a relevant active ingredient for oily scalps.

Inhibition de la 5α-réductase par le bakuchiol et l'acide rétinoïque.
Inhibition of 5α-reductase by bakuchiol and retinoic acid.
Source: Marchio F et al. Bakuchiol in the management of acne-affected skin. Cosmetics & Toiletries (2011).
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Bakuchiol may also help to protect hair from free radical damage. Indeed, oxidative stress contributes to hair ageing by weakening the hair fibre and disrupting follicle function. Under free radical attack, structural proteins such as keratin are altered, which can make hair more brittle and dull. Oxidative stress drives follicle miniaturisation, which promotes hair shedding. It contributes to the appearance of white hair by altering melanocyte activity, the cells responsible for hair colour. Bakuchiol has antioxidant properties derived from its chemical structure rich in conjugated double bonds. It may neutralise free radicals before they damage hair fibres.

Although several studies have demonstrated the antioxidant properties of bakuchiol and the harmful effect of oxidative stress on hair fibres has been documented, no direct research has shown that bakuchiol can prevent hair loss or greying.

Finally, bakuchiol may soothe irritated scalps. Scalp irritation is more common than assumed and can result from pollution, climatic changes or the use of harsh haircare products. It appears as redness, itching or heightened scalp sensitivity. By modulating the activity of certain pro-inflammatory factors, such as tumour necrosis factor alpha (TNF-α), bakuchiol may help reduce scalp inflammation and restore balance and comfort. However, this remains a hypothesis based on bakuchiol’s anti-inflammatory properties demonstrated in vitro, which still require confirmation in clinical studies conducted on the scalp.

Key points to remember.

  • Bakuchiol could regulate sebum production, which limits scalp sebum overproduction.

  • Bakuchiol has antioxidant properties that could allow it to protect hair fibres from oxidative stress.

  • Bakuchiol exhibits anti-inflammatory effects that may be relevant to soothing irritated scalps.

  • Further research remains necessary to understand the potential benefits of bakuchiol on hair, no direct study has been conducted to date.

Sources

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