Rosacea: can bakuchiol attenuate redness?

The rosacea is a chronic inflammatory skin disease characterised by the diffuse redness it causes on the face. It is a progressive dermatosis with flare-up periods. The causes of this condition are many and include genetics, high temperatures, stress… Initially, the rosacea often manifests as dilation of the facial blood vessels, i.e. telangiectasia, often accompanied by tingling and hot flushes. It is important to manage rosacea from the outset because it can progress to more severe forms (ocular rosacea, rhinophyma...). If it is not yet possible to cure the rosacea, there are solutions to reduce facial redness and improve patients’ quality of life.

The management of mild rosacea generally consists of applying creams containing vasoconstrictive active ingredients, such as brimonidine, anti-inflammatory agents, such as the azelaic acid, and antiparasitic agents, such as metronidazole.

With regard to the effect of bakuchiol on rosacea, this has been scarcely studied. Nevertheless, a pilot study led by DRAELOS provides interesting insights. This research assessed the tolerance of a formulation containing 1% bakuchiol in a cohort of 60 individuals, of whom 20 suffered from rosacea, 20 had eczema and 20 reported reactive skin. Over four weeks, participants applied the product daily, while several skin parameters were evaluated using a scale from 0 (none) to 4 (severe). Assessment criteria included visual and tactile smoothness, clarity of skin tone, radiance, overall skin appearance and signs of photoageing. Potential adverse effects, such as flaking, dryness or sensations of burning or itching, were also recorded using the same scale. Instrumental measurements complemented this clinical evaluation. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was measured using an evaporimeter, whereas skin hydration was assessed by corneometry.

Among participants with rosacea, no adverse reactions were observed throughout the study period. Furthermore, TEWL values remained stable between the start and end of the study, indicating no disruption of the skin barrier, a crucial and challenging aspect for sensitive skin. Finally, corneometry measurements revealed a statistically significant 16% increase in hydration. Although this rise may appear modest, the researchers considered it noteworthy in light of the participants’ pronounced cutaneous sensitivity. Moreover, all evaluated parameters (complexion radiance, photoageing, etc.) improved, as shown in the graph below. It is, however, unfortunate that the erythema, the persistent redness typical of rosacea, was not measured, despite being one of the key criteria for assessing the efficacy of a treatment designed for rosacea-prone skin.