Which active ingredients should PHAs be combined with?

The poly-hydroxy acids or P.H.A.s are organic carboxylic acids. Considered as the new generation of A.H.A.s, they are renowned for their keratolytic effects, meaning they remove dead cells and accelerate cell renewal. Unlike A.H.A.s, P.H.A.s have the advantage of being gentle and do not increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun. Moreover, they exhibit moisturising and humectant properties. They offer the same properties as A.H.A.s but without being irritating. For these reasons, they are suitable for dry, reactive or sensitive skin.

The poly-hydroxy acids commonly used in cosmetology are of three types:

• Gluconolactone : Also known as gluconic acid, gluconolactone is one of the active ingredients naturally present in skin cells. This exfoliant is both hydrating and antioxidant.

• Lactobionic Acid: This derivative of lactose has a antioxidant, soothing and hydrating effect. It reduces wrinkles, fine lines, pigmentation spots and scars. Lactobionic acid also helps to protect the skin barrier.

• Galactose: This active ingredient stimulates the production of collagen in addition to gently eliminating dead cells.

P.H.A.s can be combined with other active ingredients to enhance their effects. Discover which active ingredients they can be associated with:

• P.H.A. and Retinol:

  Retinol, a derivative of vitamin A, is the key active ingredient in combating skin ageing. It stimulates the synthesis of elastin and collagen, the fibrous proteins present in the dermis, which are essential for skin firmness and elasticity. When combined with P.H.A.s, it enhances their effects on acne and photo-ageing.

  However, the retinol is a molecule that can prove to be irritating and drying. If you have sensitive skin, you should rather turn to the bakuchiol which is a natural alternative to retinol with fewer side effects.

• P.H.A. and moisturising agents:

  P.H.A.s are particularly valued in cosmetics for their moisturising and humectant properties. Combining them with other hydrating agents such as hyaluronic acid, inulin, or aloe vera can help to reduce the phenomenon of skin dehydration that causes tightness and feelings of discomfort. Your skin will regain its comfort. Our exfoliating cleansing gel combines gluconolactone with inulin and aloe vera. It helps to exfoliate the skin while moisturising it and strengthening the skin barrier.

• P.H.A. and Vitamin C:

  Poly-hydroxy acids operate at a pH similar to that of vitamin C. They allow for better penetration and optimise their effects on the skin. As a reminder, vitamin C promotes collagen synthesis, neutralises free radicals, and evens out the complexion. It also helps to combat signs of ageing and blemishes (such as pigmentation spots). Indeed, both PHAs and vitamin C are acids. However, they can be used simultaneously as PHAs are non-irritating.

At Typology, we have developed a range of skincare products based on P.H.A., among which you will find:

• The exfoliating cleansing gel based on P.H.A. (gluconolactone) offers a gentle chemical micro-exfoliation. This cleanser unclogs pores and promotes skin hydration. It also contains aloe vera which hydrates and soothes the skin, as well as inulin which rebalances the skin microbiota. The sweet orange essential oil it also contains has antibacterial properties ideal for combating spots.

• The peeling mask unclogs pores, renews the skin, and evens out the complexion. Composed of an exfoliating complex based on A.H.A. and P.H.A., it eliminates dead cells and refines the skin texture. Used once or twice a week, it also helps to reduce the presence of blackheads over time.

• The anti-mark serumimproves the appearance of superficial, closed, and shallow scars through theresurfacing and depigmenting action of P.H.A. combined with theregenerative action of Centella asiatica. It also contains liquorice extract which reduces the production of melanin and thus fights against the hyperpigmentation of post-acne marks. Itis enough to apply a drop to the affected areas, in the evening only.

• Thescalp exfoliant provides a double exfoliation of the scalp : chemical with P.H.A.s, and mechanical with jojoba beads and silica powder. The scalp is healthy, rebalanced and rid of dead cells. The mechanical exfoliation action combined withpeppermint essential oil helps to accelerate hair growth by stimulating microcirculation. Moreover, theeucalyptus globulus essential oil it contains soothes scalp irritations and limits the appearance of dandruff. Finally, the P.H.A.s and aloe vera stimulate the scalp's natural hydration. This scrub is to be used once or twice a week on a dry scalp. Despite the presence of essential oils, this product can be used by pregnant and breastfeeding women.

• EDISON B. & al. The application of polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) in photoaged skin. Cutis (2004).

• SIGLER M. & al. A polyhydroxy acid skincare routine offers anti-ageing benefits comparable to an alpha-hydroxy acid routine. Cutis (2004).