What are the components of a lip mask?

The use of a lip mask allows hydration and nourishment of this area. Lips are indeed particularly sensitive to external aggressions such as wind, cold or temperature variations, due to their thinness: the skin in this area is about 5 times thinner than on the rest of the body. Moreover, they are almost devoid of sebaceous glands, and therefore sebum. This is a component of the hydrolipidic film of the skin, a substance located on the surface of the epidermis and protecting it from dehydration and certain external factors, such as pollution or UV rays. It is also worth noting that lips do not contain any sweat glands. Now, just like sebum, sweat is a component of the hydrolipidic film. Thus, this is practically absent on the lips.

Furthermore, over time, the lips become depleted in collagen, a molecule that constitutes the dermis and contributes to its structure. The lips then lose firmness and may show signs of skin sagging. The application of a lip mask provides them with a plumping effect. It firms and also brings softness to the lips.

The active ingredients used in the formulation of a lip mask typically have moisturising, soothing, nourishing, and protective properties. They are usually contained in an emulsion with a fairly rich texture. Let's explore its typical composition together.

• Vegetable oils.

  At the top of the INCI list for lip masks, we often find vegetable oils or butters. These are often very rich in fatty acids, giving them their nourishing and protective properties. Indeed, most of these compounds have a structure similar to that of the lipids that make up the stratum corneum, the skin's first barrier. They can therefore integrate into and strengthen it. Cracked or chapped lips are then repaired and intensely nourished. Among the most commonly used butters and oils, we can mention shea butter (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter), mango butter (Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter), and coconut oil (Cocos Nucifera Oil).

• Lipids.

  In order to enhance the nourishing power of lip masks, they are often formulated with lipids, such as ceramides (Ceramide NP) or triglycerides (C10-18 Triglycerides). These work through biomimicry and, as previously explained, integrate into the horny layer of the epidermis to strengthen it and play the role of intercellular cement. Among other things, lipids help to prevent lip dehydration.

• Humectant active ingredients.

  The humectant nature of an ingredient relies on its ability to retain water molecules due to its hygroscopic power. This type of active ingredient helps to limit the water loss from the lips and provides them with genuine hydration. Humectant ingredients also ensure the flexibility of the lips and make them plump. Some commonly used humectants are hyaluronic acid (Sodium Hyaluronate), sunflower seed oil (Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil), and glycerine (Glycerin).

• Soothing compounds.

  In order to reduce the sensations of tightness caused by dry lips, lip masks typically contain molecules with soothing properties. The key soothing compounds in lip masks are bisabolol (Bisabolol), sweet almond oil (Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil), and aloe vera gel (Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice).

• Emulsion stabilisers.

  In order to provide consistency and stability to the formula of lip peels, emulsion stabilisers such as xanthan gum (Xanthan Gum) or caprylic triglyceride (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) are added.

• Preservatives.

  To prevent the growth and colonisation of bacteria, antimicrobial agents are frequently added to the formulas of peels. These also include antioxidants, such as vitamin E (Tocopherol) or glycyrrhizic acid (Glycyrrhizic Acid), which help to extend the shelf life of the product and prevent it from degrading when exposed to air.