Propriété nourrissante du beurre de karité.

Shea butter, a nourishing treatment.

Shea butter is incorporated into many skin and hair care products. Its use brings numerous benefits. One of its interesting properties is its nourishing aspect. It is particularly recommended for dry skin as well as damaged or split hair.

Shea butter in a nutshell.

The shea butter is manufactured from the fat extracted from the nuts of the shea tree, a plant native to West Africa (almost all of the shea butter used today still comes from this region). Historically, it has been used by indigenous populations for centuries, both as a topical application and as a cooking butter (food-grade shea butter is still used for cooking today). Currently, it is most well-known for its use in the beauty industry.

Shea butter is rich in triglycerides, fatty acids and vitamins. When applied topically, shea butter acts as an excellent emollient and can assist the skin in reducing its moisture loss. Shea butter is incorporated into a plethora of lotions, creams and more... It can be found under the I.N.C.I. name 'Butyrospermum Parkii Butter (Extract)'.

Shea butter for nourishing dry and dehydrated skin.

The most apparent advantage, of course, is its moisturising and nourishing properties. Its qualities are linked to its high fatty acid content - and due to the types of fatty acids it contains (namely linoleic acid and oleic acid), it tends not to be greasy and is easily absorbed.

In fact, the fatty acids contained in shea butter fall into three categories, which are monounsaturated fatty acids, polyunsaturated fatty acids, and saturated fatty acids. These molecules contribute to hydration by strengthening the skin's protective barrier, which itself is made up of fatty acids. As a reminder, skin hydration is maintained by the presence of the hydrolipidic film which prevents evaporation and keeps hygroscopic molecules within the cells.

It has been demonstrated that this plant-based butter locks in moisture in the skin and protects the skin barrier. A study even suggests that it has topical effects similar to those of ceramides, the polar lipids naturally present in the epidermis and responsible for the impermeability of the skin barrier. Shea butter and its components are even nicknamed phytoceramides.

The fatty acids that make up shea butter.

Here are the main fatty acids present in the shea butter.

  • 40 to 50% of oleic acid or omega-9.

    This monounsaturated fatty acid is a lipid that forms part of the composition of sebum, a substance naturally secreted by the body to counteract the dryness of the skin and hair. It stimulates the production of sebum by the sebaceous glands. Sweet almond vegetable oil is thusrelipidating, it is recommended for the care ofdry and dehydrated skin and hair.

  • 36 to 50% of stearic acid.

    The National Library of Medicine (NLM) defines stearic acid as a long-chain saturated fatty acid. The long chain is composed of 18 carbon atoms. In skincare, stearic acid is recognised for its emollient, nourishing, and protective (film-forming) properties.

  • 4 to 8% of linoleic acid oromega-6.

    This category of fatty acids is referred to asessential, because they are not synthesised by the body. Omega-6 fatty acids contribute to the process of cellular renewal. When applied topically, they therefore help to combat signs of ageing and promote healing. They also soothe inflammatory reactions and are beneficial for sensitive skin, suffering from tightness and irritation.

  • 3 to 8% of palmitic acid.

    Saturated fatty acids, such as thepalmitic acid, possess emollient properties, which means they promote the hydration of skin and hair cells. They thus provide suppleness and softness.

In which Typology treatments can one find shea butter?

The nourishing lip balm with 9 ingredients has been designed solely from essential ingredients for its function. Shea butter helps to protect the lips from skin dryness.

Ournourishing face creambased on hyaluronic acid also contains shea butter. Thanks to its content of moisturising and lipid-replenishing active ingredients, this treatment provides suppleness to the skin. Furthermore, it reduces feelings of tightness. It is suitable for normal, combination and dry skin types.

You can also find this vegetable butter in the firming night mask based on prickly pear oil, a nourishing balm to nourish and regenerate weakened skin, and firm up the tissues.

Thenourishing body creamalso contains shea butter alongside squalane and plum oil to restore the skin's lipid barrier, reduce feelings of tightness, and protect the skin from external aggressions.

Shea butter is also present in the gel-in-oil stretch marks
with baobab oil to prevent and visibly reduce the appearance of stretch marks, while providing flexibility and elasticity to the skin.

Finally, our two solid cleansing treatments cold-processed (CP) 100% natural are enriched with shea butter.

Sources:

  • LEUNG T. F. & co.Patient acceptability, effectiveness, and skin biophysics of a cream and cleanser containing a lipid complex with shea butter extract compared to a ceramide product for eczema. Hong Kong Medical Journal (2015).

  • SANTIAGO J. L. & al. Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of certain plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences (2018).

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