Mango butter: everything you need to know about this ingredient.

The mango tree is a tropical plant native to Asia, belonging to the Anacardiaceae family. It is primarily cultivated for its sweet and refreshing fruits. Beyond its nutritional values, the mango contains a kernel that encloses a highly valued ingredient in cosmetics: the mango butter.

Also known as mango oil, this substance is semi-solid at room temperature and becomes melting when it comes into contact with the skin or when the outside temperature exceeds 30°C. Mango butter has excellent stability to oxidation and emits a soft, vegetal scent, quite characteristic.

The vast majority of mango butter comes from India, where the majority of the world's mango trees are found. Firstly, mango kernels are harvested and then cleaned, in order to remove any impurities that may be attached to their surface. A cleaner-separator is used for this, acting as a filter, or a sieve. They are then dried for several days to remove all the moisture present in the kernels. After which, these are mechanically pressed to extract the oil. This is a cold press process as the kernels are not heated before extraction.

This process prevents any oxidation or degradation of the oil due to high temperature. In the context of cold pressing, a screw press is used to push the kernel into a barrel-shaped cavity. The screw compresses the kernel and the oil comes out through the openings, while the pressing residues (cake) remain in the barrel. Finally, the obtained substance is decanted and filtered, without the use of a solvent. The purpose of these operations is to rid the oil of any remaining traces of impurity.

The mango butter is predominantly composed of saturated fatty acids, such as stearic acid, making up almost 50%, and palmitic acid. These have an "occlusive" effect on the skin and contribute to the maintenance of the hydrolipidic film, which is present on the surface of the epidermis and plays a protective role.

Mango butter also contains unsaturated fatty acids, such as oleic acid, a omega-9. This active ingredient is considered an emollient and contributes to skin suppleness. This is also the case with squalene, found in mango butter.

This botanical extract also contains several phytosterols in its composition. These molecules have a beneficial effect on the skin's barrier function and possess anti-inflammatory properties. Finally, mango butter contains polyphenols, which are antioxidants.

The skin like the hair can benefit from the numerous active ingredients contained in mango butter. These confer several benefits, among which are:

• Nourishing properties : The saturated fatty acids found in mango butter help to maintain the skin's structure. Indeed, these compounds have a structure similar to that of the lipids that make up the stratum corneum of the epidermis. They are thus able to integrate themselves where they act as intercellular cement. By contributing to the restoration and cohesion of the stratum corneum, saturated fatty acids also promote its impermeability, which helps to prevent skin dehydration. Skincare products containing mango butter are therefore recommended for dry or atopic skin, which lack lipids.

• A protective action : Oleic acid, an omega-9 from mango butter, is naturally present in the hydrolipidic film and promotes the protection and hydration of the skin. The topical application of mango butter thus helps to strengthen this film. It acts as a shield to keep the skin hydrated and protected from external aggressions (wind, temperature changes, pollution, sun rays...).

• Antioxidant power : rich in polyphenols, mango butter is an excellent antioxidant treatment to protect the skin and hair fibre from free radicals. These are reactive oxygen species, partly responsible for premature skin ageing, the appearance of split ends and early hair loss.

• Anti-inflammatory properties : Phytosterols, which are part of the composition of mango butter, are attributed with anti-inflammatory action. However, the mechanism by which these molecules operate has not yet been fully elucidated and further research is still required. It would thus appear that the application of mango butter may help to reduce redness and soothe the skin.

Butters and oils are fatty substances. As such, they are likely to make the skin quite oily and promote the appearance of comedones. We then speak of comedogenic oil. The comedogenicity of each oil is defined in relation to a scale ranging from 0 to 5, 0 representing a non-comedogenic oil. The mango butter has a comedogenicity index of 0. As a result, it is perfect for oily, combination, normal or dry skin.

Furthermore, to date, there is no contraindication to the use of mango butter. Its topical application is suitable for young children, as well as pregnant or breastfeeding women. This botanical extract is also suitable for sensitive skin and will be particularly appreciated by mature skin.

You can find all the beneficial properties of mango butter in the following Typology skincare products:

• Repairing Lip Mask : Composed of 98% natural ingredients, this treatment combines the lipid-replenishing action of ceramides (INCI name: Ceramides NG) with the moisturising effect of hyaluronic acid (INCI name: Sodium Hyaluronate) to repair chapped lips. After 15 minutes of application, the lips feel more comfortable and supple.

• Hair Repair Mask : this treatment is enriched with biomimetic ceramides (INCI name: Behenyl/Stearyl Aminopropanediol Esters) which deeply repair and nourish the hair fibre to soften the hair and prevent the appearance of split ends. This mask should be used 1 to 2 times per week. Its creamy texture instantly coats the hair fibre and softens the hair without weighing it down. It should be applied to washed and towel-dried hair from mid-lengths to ends. Leave it on for 5 to 10 minutes before rinsing thoroughly.

• Radiance Mask : containing turmeric (INCI: Curcuma Longa Rhizome Powder), lemon verbena hydrosol (INCI: Lippia Citriodora Leaf Water) and yellow clay (INCI: Kaolin), this treatment is an ally for restoring skin radiance. The synergy of these ingredients revitalises the epidermis and protects it from the effects of oxidative stress, by neutralising free radicals. Moreover, this mask prevents the appearance of pigmentation spots, for a uniform and luminous complexion. After application, it leaves the skin soft.

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• NOMURA M. & al. Evaluation of the fatty acid composition of the seeds of Mangifera indica L. and their application. Journal of oleo science (2015).

• KHALIQUE A. & al. Promising features of mango (Mangifera indica L.) kernel oil: a review. Journal of food science and technology (2016).

• GLAVAC N. & al. Vegetable butters and oils in skin wound healing: scientific evidence for new opportunities in dermatology. Phytotherapy Research (2020).