How can dandruff be eliminated?

The dandruff are a very common scalp imbalance. They arise from excessive scalp desquamation, meaning the elimination in visible clumps of dead epidermal cells. Under normal conditions, scalp cell renewal proceeds unobtrusively over an approximately 28-day cycle. However, certain factors can accelerate this process and result in a premature detachment of keratinocytes. These cells then aggregate into small white or yellow particles, visible on the hair and on clothing. Generally, two main types of dandruff : dry dandruff, which is fine and flaky and falls off easily, and greasy dandruff, which is thicker and stickier, often associated with an oily scalp and potentially leading to seborrhoeic dermatitis.

The emergence of dandruff is multifactorial and does not indicate poor hygiene, contrary to popular belief. The excessive proliferation of a yeast naturally present on the skin, Malassezia furfur, plays a major role in disrupting the skin’s balance and triggering an inflammatory response. Other factors also contribute, such as stress, hormonal fluctuations, genetic predisposition or the use of unsuitable hair care products. Beyond their unsightly appearance, dandruff can cause itching, especially in the case of oily dandruff. Dandruff can therefore affect self-esteem and quality of life.

Whether the flakes are dry or oily, the primary intervention against dandruff is to employ an anti-dandruff shampoo.

Solution No. 1 for dandruff: Use an anti-dandruff shampoo.

These formulations contain active ingredients specifically developed to target both the proliferation of the fungus Malassezia furfur and inflammation of the scalp. Ketoconazole and selenium sulphide, for instance, possess potent antifungal activity that reduces the density of yeasts responsible for scalp imbalance. Salicylic acid, in turn, dissolves scale clusters to cleanse the scalp. Among the most effective anti-dandruff actives is also the ciclopirox olamine and the piroctone olamine, structurally similar and complementary.

Only regular use of anti-dandruff shampoo provides lasting relief from dandruff. During the initial treatment phase, the shampoo is typically applied two to three times a week, left in place for a few minutes before rinsing to allow the active compounds to work. Once symptoms are under control and dandruff has cleared, a weekly maintenance wash is often sufficient to prevent recurrence. It is also advisable to alternate between an anti-dandruff shampoo and a mild, moisturizing shampoo, so as not to compromise the scalp’s integrity, particularly if your dandruff tends to be dry and mild.

Note : Several studies have highlighted a link between dandruff and a dysbiosis of the bacterial and fungal flora of the scalp. The findings indicate a new potential role for commensal bacteria in maintaining scalp homeostasis and reveal a significant yet still unknown function of the scalp microbiome. For reference, commensal bacteria are a class of microorganisms residing on the surface of our skin, neither harming nor benefiting it. This resembles a form of symbiosis that is beneficial to only one party. As such, the use of prebiotics in anti-dandruff shampoos is particularly interesting for supporting the microbiota and keeping Malassezia under control.

Solution No. 2 for dandruff: Regularly exfoliate the scalp.

Beyond the use of anti-dandruff shampoos, exfoliating the scalp plays a crucial role in limiting dandruff formation. Indeed, the accumulation of dead skin cells and sebum residues creates a favourable environment for microbial proliferation and exacerbates itching. Performing a gentle exfoliation once or twice a week helps to clear the hair follicles and prevent the formation of new flakes. A recent study involving 32 volunteers further confirmed the benefit of this approach: after 15 days of daily use of an exfoliating scrub formulated with alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) and polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) combined with a hydrating serum, participants exhibited a significant reduction in visible dandruff. Simultaneously, scalp hydration increased, which helped to reduce sensations of tightness and itching.

Solution No. 3 for dandruff: Utilising essential oils.

In parallel, certain essential oils can complement dandruff management thanks to their antifungal and soothing properties. However, they should never be applied undiluted to the scalp, as this may cause irritation. It is recommended to dilute them in a lightweight carrier oil, such as jojoba or grape-seed oil, which does not weigh the hair down. Among the most commonly used, the tea tree essential oil, of lavender, of rosemary or even of Atlas cedar are particularly effective in limiting the proliferation of Malassezia and alleviating itching. Caution, however: do not mix multiple essential oils if you are not familiar with aromatherapy. Rather than boosting their effectiveness, this may sensitise the scalp.

The efficacy of tea tree essential oil has indeed been demonstrated in a trial involving 126 participants with mild to moderate dandruff. Over a four-week period, the volunteers used daily either a shampoo containing 5% tea tree essential oil, or the same shampoo without the oil. The results showed a significant improvement in the dandruff severity score in the treated group (-41%, compared with -11% for the placebo group), along with a reduction in the affected area and itching. Moreover, no adverse effects were recorded.

Note: Although they are often distinguished, dry and oily dandruff are treated in the same way. Dry dandruff was formerly called 'pityriasis simplex' and fatty dandruff 'pityriasis steatoid' (often associated with seborrheic dermatitis) but these terms are now obsolete. The current scientific literature no longer separates oily dandruff from dry dandruff.

At Typology, you will find a range of products formulated to help you keep your dandruff under control.

• Our anti-dandruff shampoo is suited to oily and dry dandruff. It is formulated with 1% of piroctone olamine which exhibits antifungal activity and limits sebum secretion. It also contains jujube extract which regulates desquamation and thus reduces dandruff formation. It also soothes itching and irritation. Moreover, this treatment includes Atlas cedar essential oil and clary sage essential oil recognised for their anti-dandruff and sebum-regulating properties.

• Our scalp scrub, enriched with PHAs and jojoba beads, gently removes dead skin cells to promote a healthy, rebalanced scalp. It contains 95% natural-origin ingredients and is used before shampooing.

Although dandruff is benign, consulting a dermatologist is advisable, especially in cases of severe scaling. Furthermore, dry dandruff presents a clinical picture similar to psoriasis. Your doctor will thus be best placed to advise you.

• BARNETSON R. & al. Treatment of dandruff with 5% tea tree oil shampoo. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology (2002).

• WIKRAMANAYAKE C. & al. Seborrheic dermatitis and dandruff: A comprehensive review. Journal of Clinical and Investigative Dermatology (2015).

• SHARMA V. K. Comparison of healthy and dandruff scalp microbiome reveals the role of commensals in scalp health. Frontiers in Cellular and Infection Microbiology (2018)

• JEGOU-PENOUIL M.-H. Les pellicules. Dermato-info (2019).

• PATNAIK S. & al. An assessment of the safety, efficacy, and tolerability of a novel scalp treatment regimen combining a hydroxy acid-based scrub and copper tripeptide serum in the management of seborrheic dermatitis in adults. Cureus (2024).