Sebum is often singled out when it comes to dandruff. This lipid film, secreted by the sebaceous glands, nevertheless has a vital protective function : it lubricates the scalp, maintains its hydration and forms a natural barrier against external aggressions. However, as is often the case in biology, balance is crucial: too little sebum weakens the skin, while too much disrupts the cutaneous ecosystem.
The aforementioned study by ZHANG also analysed the relationship between sebum and dandruff. The researchers found that sebum production varies with age: it reaches its highest levels between 20 and 39 years, then tends to decrease after 40. At first glance, one might expect younger people to be more prone to dandruff. However, the opposite is observed: older adults often exhibit more flakes, despite producing less sebum. This paradox shows that sebum alone is not the direct cause, but works in interaction with the skin microbiota and barrier.
The effect that sebum depends primarily on its composition. Rich in triglycerides and wax esters, it serves as a genuine source of nutrients for lipophilic micro-organisms, notably yeasts of the genus Malassezia. These possess lipase enzymes capable of hydrolysing the triglycerides in sebum and releasing free fatty acids. Among these, certain unsaturated fatty acids are known to be irritants: they disrupt the cohesion of corneocytes in the stratum corneum and increase the permeability of the skin barrier. Consequently, the skin is weakened, local inflammation ensues and desquamation intensifies.
Sebum also influences the bacterial population of the scalp. For example, Cutibacterium uses certain lipids as energy substrates. Its presence, beneficial under balanced conditions, is associated with the production of organic acids and antimicrobial compounds that limit the growth of competing bacteria such as Staphylococcus. An imbalance in the composition of sebum can thus disadvantage some bacterial populations in favour of others, indirectly contributing to the development of dandruff.
Finally, beyond its composition, sebum also acts by modulating transepidermal water loss. Indeed, a deficiency or poor quality of sebum can increase water loss through the epidermis, further compromising the skin barrier. The study shows that the regions of the scalp with elevated transepidermal water loss are also those where dandruff is most pronounced.
Sebum should not be considered an isolated factor but rather as a modulator of scalp equilibrium.