How to eliminate dandruff?

Affecting nearly 50% of the population, dandruff is a very recurrent imbalance. These are small whitish, yellowish or greyish scales that depending on the type of dandruff (dry or oily) detach or remain stuck to the scalp. The process behind this phenomenon is an abnormally rapid renewal of the epidermal cells of the scalp. The dead cells formed being immature to eliminate naturally, they clump together which makes them visible to the naked eye.

Beyond their unsightly appearance, dandruff can cause itching, particularly in the case of oily dandruff. Therefore, dandruff can impact self-esteem and quality of life.

To eliminate dandruff, it is necessary to use a gentle shampoo that is specifically designed to address this issue. Anti-dandruff shampoos contain certain key active ingredients:

• Anti-fungal agents :

  One of the main causes of dandruff formation is the colonisation by Malassezia type fungi. Therefore, antifungal agents are necessary to effectively eliminate dandruff. Among them, we can mention piroctone olamine, ciclopirox or even ketoconazole.

Note : The pyrithione-zinc (INCI name: Zinc Pyrithione) is an antifungal, antibacterial, and anti-seborrheic active ingredient found in the composition of many anti-dandruff shampoos. However, it is now banned in Europe due to its carcinogenic risk.

• Keratolytic agents:

  Dandruff consists of small scales or immature dead cells that cannot naturally be eliminated. Therefore, keratolytic agents are used to effectively remove these dead cells. For instance, glycolic acid, salicylic acid, gluconolactone or lactic acid are often found in anti-dandruff shampoos.

• The soothing agents:

  Dandruff often rhymes with itching. Indeed, this is particularly common for oily dandruff. Soothing active ingredients, such as the bisabolol or the calendula, help to calm and soothe itching sensations.

• Anti-seborrheic agents:

  It has been proven that the two major causes of dandruff are the colonisation of the scalp by microorganisms and the overproduction of sebum, particularly in the case of oily dandruff. Furthermore, hyperseborrhoea promotes the proliferation of fungi responsible for dandruff. Therefore, the use of anti-seborrhoeic active ingredients such as zinc, nettle extract or certain essential oils (essential oil of clary sage, ylang-ylang, rosemary verbenone) is beneficial in combating dandruff.

• The nourishing, hydrating, and rebalancing active ingredients:

  Individual factors also play a significant role in the formation of dandruff. This is particularly the case for individuals with a dysfunctional skin barrier. An imbalance in the barrier function leads to an increase in sebum secretion by the sebaceous glands and promotes the colonisation of the scalp by Malassezia-type fungi. Therefore, to strengthen the skin barrier, nourishing and hydrating active ingredients such as squalane or aloe vera are used.

Note : Studies have highlighted a link between dandruff and dysbiosis (imbalance) of the bacterial and fungal flora of the scalp. The results indicate a potential new role for commensal bacteria in maintaining scalp homeostasis and highlight an important and yet unknown role of the scalp microbiome. Consequently, the use of prebiotics in anti-dandruff shampoos is very interesting to support the microbiota and keep Malassezia under control.