How can oily dandruff and dry dandruff be eliminated?

The dandruff is a very common scalp imbalance. It results from excessive shedding of the scalp. Normally, scalp cell renewal takes place over a cycle of about 28 days, but in the case of dandruff, this process accelerates and causes a premature detachment of keratinocytes. The onset of dandruff has a multifactorial origin and does not indicate poor hygiene, contrary to popular belief. The proliferation of a yeast naturally present on the skin, Malassezia furfur, plays a major role in disrupting the skin’s balance and triggering an inflammatory response. Other factors also contribute, such as stress, hormonal variations, a genetic predisposition or the use of unsuitable hair-care products.

The primary approach to dandruff is to utilise an anti-dandruff treatment.

Solution No. 1 for dandruff: use an anti-dandruff product.

Whether in shampoos, serums or lotions, these formulations contain active ingredients specifically developed to target both the proliferation of the fungus Malassezia furfur and the inflammation of the scalp. Ketoconazole and selenium sulfide, for example, possess potent antifungal activity that reduces the density of yeasts responsible for skin imbalance. Salicylic acid and glycolic acid, in turn, dissolve clusters of scales to cleanse the scalp. Salicylic acid is also useful for combating excess sebum, which contributes to aggravating dandruff and provoking seborrheic dermatitis. Among the most effective anti-dandruff actives is also the ciclopirox olamine and the piroctone olamine, structurally similar and complementary.

Only regular use of anti-dandruff treatment achieves a lasting elimination of dandruff. When it takes the form of a shampoo, during the initial treatment phase it is typically applied two to three times per week, left on for a few minutes before rinsing to allow the active ingredients to work. Once the symptoms are controlled and dandruff has disappeared, a weekly maintenance use often suffices to prevent recurrence. It is also advisable to alternate between an anti-dandruff shampoo and a gentle, moisturising shampoo, to avoid weakening the scalp, particularly if your dandruff is dry and mild.

Note : Several studies have highlighted a link between dandruff and a dysbiosis of the bacterial and fungal flora of the scalp. The findings indicate a new potential role of commensal bacteria in maintaining scalp homeostasis and reveal an important yet still unknown role of the scalp microbiome. For information, commensal bacteria are a class of microorganisms that reside on the surface of our skin without harming or benefiting it. This resembles a form of symbiosis, albeit one-sided. Consequently, the use of prebiotics in anti-dandruff shampoos could be particularly beneficial for supporting the microbiota.

Solution No. 2 for dandruff: exfoliate your scalp regularly.

Beyond the use of anti-dandruff treatments, scalp exfoliation plays a crucial role in limiting dandruff formation. Indeed, the accumulation of dead skin cells and sebum residues creates a favourable environment for microbial proliferation and intensifies itching. To unclog hair follicles and prevent the formation of new flakes, we therefore recommend using a shampoo containing exfoliating agents or carrying out a gentle scrub once or twice a week.

A recent study conducted with 32 volunteers has indeed confirmed the benefit of this approach: after 15 days of daily use of an exfoliating acid scrub (AHAs, BHAs and PHAs) combined with a hydrating serum, participants exhibited a significant reduction in visible dandruff. In parallel, scalp hydration increased, helping to alleviate sensations of tightness and itching.

Solution No. 3 for dandruff: the utilisation of essential oils.

Alongside this, certain essential oils can complement the management of dandruff due to their antifungal and soothing properties. However, they should never be applied undiluted to the scalp, as this may cause irritation. It is recommended to dilute them in a light vegetable oil, such as jojoba oil or grape seed oil, which will not weigh the hair down. Among the most widely used is tea tree essential oil, lavender, rosemary or even Atlas cedar are particularly useful to limit the proliferation of Malassezia and soothe itching. However, exercise caution: do not combine multiple essential oils if you are not familiar with aromatherapy. Instead of enhancing their efficacy, this may sensitize the scalp.

The efficacy of tea tree essential oil was demonstrated in a trial involving 126 participants with mild to moderate dandruff. Over four weeks, volunteers applied daily either a shampoo containing 5% tea tree essential oil, or the same shampoo without the oil. The results showed a significant improvement in the dandruff severity score in the treated group (−41% versus −11% in the placebo group), alongside a reduction in the affected area and itching. Furthermore, no adverse effects were reported.

Note : Even though they are often distinguished, dry and oily dandruff are treated in the same way. Dry dandruff was formerly called "pityriasis simplex" and oily dandruff "pityriasis steatoides" (often associated with seborrhoeic dermatitis), but these terms are now obsolete. Current scientific literature no longer distinguishes oily dandruff from dry dandruff.

At Typology, you will find a range of products designed to help you keep dandruff under control.

• Our anti-dandruff shampoo is suitable for oily and dry dandruff. It is formulated with 1% of piroctone olamine which exhibits antifungal activity and reduces sebum secretion. It also contains jujube extract which regulates flaking and thus diminishes dandruff formation. It also soothes itching and irritation. In addition, this treatment contains Atlas cedar essential oil and clary sage essential oil recognised for their anti-dandruff and sebum-regulating properties.

• Our scalp scrub, enriched with PHAs and jojoba beads, gently removes dead skin cells for a healthy, rebalanced scalp. It comprises 95% ingredients of natural origin and is applied before shampooing.

Although dandruff is benign, consultation with a dermatologist is necessary, particularly in cases of severe scaling. Moreover, dry dandruff exhibits a clinical presentation similar to psoriasis. Your doctor will therefore be able to guide you most effectively.

• BARNETSON R. & al. Treatment of dandruff with 5% tea tree oil shampoo. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology (2002).

• WIKRAMANAYAKE C. & al. Seborrheic dermatitis and dandruff: A comprehensive review. Journal of Clinical and Investigative Dermatology (2015).

• SHARMA V. K. Comparison of healthy and dandruff scalp microbiome reveals the role of commensals in scalp health. Frontiers in Cellular and Infection Microbiology (2018)

• JEGOU-PENOUIL M.-H. Les pellicules. Dermato-info (2019).

• PATNAIK S. & al. An assessment of the safety, efficacy, and tolerability of a novel scalp treatment regimen combining a hydroxy acid-based scrub and copper tripeptide serum in the management of seborrheic dermatitis in adults. Cureus (2024).