Retinol, an active form of Vitamin A, is renowned for its numerous benefits on the skin. This molecule was first isolated in 1931 by Swiss chemist Paul Karrer. In 1980, its effect on signs of ageing was demonstrated by American dermatologist Albert Kligman. Could retinol also be used to get rid of blackheads? Explore this question here.
Does retinol remove blackheads?
Published on March 24, 2025, by Pauline, Chemical Engineer — 6 min of reading
Themes:
Are retinol treatments effective against blackheads?
Blackheads, or open comedones, are retentional lesions that resemble small dark bumps. Often found on oily skin, they form when a significant amount of sebum or dead cells block a pore, creating a plug within the hair follicle. As a result of this accumulation, the pore widens, exposing the sebum to air which oxidises it and gives it its characteristic black colour. Most blackheads appear on the T-zone of the face, which includes the forehead, nose, and chin, where the concentration of sebaceous glands is highest. Genetic, hormonal, or environmental factors can cause hyperseborrhoea and a slowdown in cell renewal, processes that lead to the emergence of blackheads.
The retinol could be a promising solution for eliminating blackheads. Indeed, after application on the skin, it undergoes two enzymatic transformations to become retinoic acid, its active form. This latter interacts with specific receptors in skin cells, called RAR, for retinoic acid receptors, and RXR, for retinoid X receptors. By activating these receptors, it triggers a cascade of cellular signals that regulate the expression of certain genes involved in the differentiation of keratinocytes. This action contributes to more effectively removing dead cells, thus reducing pore obstruction and the formation of open comedones.
However, it should be noted that retinol is not strictly an exfoliant: its influence on the removal of cells from the stratum corneum is only indirect. In parallel, retinol is often described as a regulator of sebum production. While this property has been widely demonstrated in vitro, clinical studies are still limited on this point.
Retinol appears to be a relevant active ingredient for reducing blackheads as it accelerates cell renewal, thus limiting the build-up of dead cells that clog the pores.
Despite the intriguing action of retinol, clinical studies on its effectiveness against blackheads are currently limited. However, we can mention the study by NATAKANKITKUL and his team, which compared the effectiveness of a 0.2% retinol formulation, another containing 5% of sodium ascorbyl phosphate, a derivative of vitamin C, and a third containing both actives. This study gathered 45 participants suffering from acne and presenting, among other lesions, open comedones. Divided into three groups of fifteen people, these volunteers applied one of the formulations daily for eight weeks, resulting in a significant reduction in the number of lesions. However, the exact proportion of blackhead reduction was not specified, which limits the interpretation of the results, but these data are encouraging regarding the potential of retinol.
| Formulation | After 4 weeks | After 8 weeks |
|---|---|---|
| 0.2% retinol | Reduction in lesions by 21.79% | Reduction in lesions by 49.50% |
| 5% Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate | Reduction in lesions by 20.14% | Reduction of lesions by 48.82% |
| Retinol + Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate | Reduction in lesions by 29.28% | Reduction in lesions by 63.10% |
Reduction in lesions following the application of a formulation based on retinol, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, or a blend of the two active ingredients.
Source: NATAKANKITKUL S. et al. A comparative study of the clinical efficacy of sodium ascorbyl phosphate, retinol and their combination in the treatment of acne. Published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2009).
Further clinical studies are required to confirm the efficacy of retinol against blackheads, although several factors suggest its potential.
Sources
NATAKANKITKUL S. & al. Comparison of clinical efficacies of sodium ascorbyl phosphate, retinol and their combination in acne treatment. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2009).
BRODELL R. T. & al. Overview of the Treatment of Acne Vulgaris with Topical Retinoids. Postgraduate Medicine (2011).
CHIVOT M. & al. Retinoid Therapy for Acne - A Comparative Review. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology (2012).
MANGI R. K. & al. A Brief Review on Acne Vulgaris: Pathogenesis, Diagnosis and Treatment. Research & Reviews: Journal of Pharmacology (2014).
