Pregnancy and breastfeeding: Which ingredients are unsafe?

Which cosmetic active ingredients are not recommended for pregnant and breastfeeding women?

While raw fish, cured meats, soft cheese, wine and many other foods and drinks are advised against during pregnancy, restrictions extend beyond diet. The list may also include everyday skincare products. Although skin is the first line of defence against most chemicals, skincare products are designed to penetrate skin layers and can enter the bloodstream, reaching the developing foetus or breast milk. Continue reading for a list of active ingredients to avoid during pregnancy and breastfeeding to reduce exposure and risk.

Ingredient 1: avoid retinoids during pregnancy and breastfeeding.

The retinoids are synthetic forms of vitamin A. They are used in skincare for their threefold efficacy on fine lines, acne, and dark spots. They accelerate the exfoliation of dead cells and stimulate collagen production. Retinoids are available over the counter (retinol, retinaldehyde, retinal, retinyl palmitate) and by prescription (adapalene, tretinoin, tazarotene, isotretinoin, retinoic acid). However, oral retinoids such as isotretinoin and first-generation topical molecules such as tretinoin and tazarotene have raised concerns during pregnancy and breastfeeding. They can affect the embryo and developing foetus, causing miscarriage, preterm birth, and congenital malformations.

Classified as potent teratogens, infants may develop the foetal retinol syndrome after the fifteenth day post-conception, which lead to a range of congenital mental and physical malformations. Manifestations may include neurological development delay, craniofacial anomalies, central nervous system defects, cardiovascular anomalies, renal anomalies, thymus dysfunction, parathyroid gland abnormalities, skeletal malformations and/or other physical signs. The scope and severity of anomalies vary depending on the timing of exposure during pregnancy.

However, no studies yet exist on the risks of topical retinol formulations, a type of retinoid widely used in products available without prescription. Although systemic absorption of retinol remains minimal and the compound undergoes rapid metabolism, it is preferable to exercise caution and exclude them from a skin care regimen.

Ingredient number two: essential oils contraindicated for pregnant and breastfeeding people.

An essential oil (EO) is a liquid, aromatic extract obtained by steam distillation from a plant, concentrating its active compounds. Due to their ketone function, some essential oils are considered neurotoxic. They can cause convulsions, spasms and nausea. Some EOs may exhibit mutagenic and teratogenic properties, that is, they may induce DNA mutations. However, studies on this topic remain limited.

Thus, certain products based on essential oils may be contraindicated during pregnancy depending on the essential oil concentration in the products and on the product type (rinse-off or leave-on). For example, if the product contains a low essential oil concentration and/or is rinse-off, it may not be contraindicated.

The use of essential oils is not without risk (neurotoxic and mutagenic effects). Precautions must be taken to ensure safe use. In pregnant or breastfeeding women, some essential oil-based products must be avoided to minimise risk.

Typology products to avoid during pregnancy.

Here are the Typology products to avoid during pregnancy.

Types of products	Products
Body moisturising creams	Firming Body Cream
Facial moisturising creams	Exfoliating night cream ; Purifying facial cream ; Firming facial cream
Deodorants	Natural bergamot and green mandarin deodorant; natural rose and vanilla deodorant
Facial and body exfoliants	Radiance facial exfoliant; Smoothing facial exfoliant; Purifying facial exfoliant; Nourishing body exfoliant; Toning body exfoliant
Facial masks	Exfoliating mask
Solid soaps	Hydrating cleansing treatment; rebalancing cleansing treatment
Body serums	Body-firming serum
Facial serums	Antioxidant serum; Serum for localised imperfections; Serum for wrinkles and fine lines; Serum for wrinkles and imperfections
Night serums	Botanical radiance blend; Botanical hydrating blend; Botanical purifying blend; Botanical bronzing tint blend; Botanical firming blend
Shampoos	Purifying shampoo; Densifying shampoo
Toners	Firming tonic lotion