Renowned for its effectiveness on signs of ageing and blemishes, retinol is also associated with risks of irritation and inflammation. This is why individuals with black skin, who are sensitive to hyperpigmentation issues, are sometimes hesitant to use it. Is retinol suitable for darker phototypes? Let's explore the scientific literature together.
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Retinol for all phototypes, even dark skin?
Summary
Published March 19, 2025,
updated on March 19, 2025,
by
Pauline, Chemical Engineer
—
7 min read
Can darker skin types safely use retinol?
Retinol is one of the most widely used molecules in skincare today. This is due to its versatile nature, with its effectiveness demonstrated in numerous studies. Retinol is particularly valued for its antioxidant, exfoliating, depigmenting, and firming properties. Once applied to the skin, retinol undergoes two successive conversions to transform into retinoic acid, its active form. This then binds to specific receptors (RXR and RAR), accelerating cell renewal and stimulating the activity of fibroblasts, the dermal cells responsible for the synthesis of collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid. However, retinol also has a certain potential for irritation and inflammation, due to its tendency to increase the expression of MCP-1, IL-8, IL-12p40, and TNF-α in epidermal cells and fibroblasts, which are pro-inflammatory mediators.
It is therefore reasonable to question whether retinol, which can sometimes cause skin inflammation, is suitable for black skin, for which the hyperpigmentation, often caused by inflammation, is one of the main skin concerns.
9%
Individuals with dark skin have hyperpigmentation marks.
1.7%
Individuals with fair skin have hyperpigmentation marks.
Scientific studies on this matter are, however, reassuring: retinol is a beneficial active ingredient for black skin, which can particularly help to prevent and reduce hyperpigmentation marks. Indeed, by stimulating cell renewal, retinol accelerates the natural exfoliation process. This mechanism helps to remove dead cells from the horny layer containing an excess of melanin, the cause of hyperpigmentation. It should be noted that retinol does not have a lightening effect and does not create differences between the areas on which it is applied and the rest of the body: it simply helps to reduce hyperpigmentation, thus contributing to a more uniform complexion. The results of certain scientific studies, conducted with individuals with a dark phototype, are presented below and show the compatibility and interest of retinol and retinoids in general for black skin.
| Study | Protocol | Results |
|---|---|---|
| GUENIN & al. (2020) | 308 participants with dark skin and hyperpigmentation applied a lotion containing 0.05% tretinoin daily for 12 weeks. | The average scores for hyperpigmentation decreased from 0.8 to 0.6, as did the percentage of participants with moderate or severe hyperpigmentation (from 26.4% to 17.3%). No side effects were reported. |
| HARRIS & al. (2020) | 262 participants with black skin suffering from acne applied a 0.045% tazarotene lotion or a control daily for 12 weeks. | A reduction of 60.4% in inflammatory lesions and 57.8% in non-inflammatory lesions was recorded in the group that received the lotion. However, 15 participants experienced skin irritation. |
| LANGTON & al. (2024) | Eighteen volunteers with dark skin were occluded at the arm level with a patch containing 0.025% retinoic acid (for 4 days) or 0.3% to 1% retinol (for 12 days). | An improvement in melanin distribution and a remodelling of the dermis was observed, while no side effects were reported. |
Findings from several clinical studies conducted on the effects of retinol on individuals with dark skin.
The images of two participants taken during the initial study conducted with tazarotene, a molecule belonging to the class of acetylenic retinoids, are displayed below and demonstrate significant progress. The first individual experienced an 80% reduction in inflammatory lesions and a 33% decrease in non-inflammatory lesions, while the second observed a 60% reduction in inflammatory lesions and a 46% decrease in non-inflammatory lesions.
Effect of a 0.045% tazarotene lotion on two women suffering from acne and hyperpigmentation.
Source: GUENIN E. & al. Impacts of Topical Retinoids on Acne and Post-inflammatory Hyperpigmentation in Patients with Skin of Colour: A Clinical Review and Practice Implications. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology (2021).
As zero risk does not exist, it is advised for individuals with dark skin, as with all phototypes, to gradually introduce retinol into their skincare routine to minimise any risk of hyperpigmentation. Furthermore, if it is a treatment prescribed by a dermatologist, it is crucial to strictly adhere to the recommended doses.
Sources
HALDER R. & al. Incidence of common dermatoses in a predominantly black dermatologic practice. Cutis (1983).
CALLENDER V. & al. Postinflammatory Hyperpigmentation - A Review of the Epidemiology, Clinical Features, and Treatment Options in Skin of Color. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology (2010).
PATTERSON S. & al. Dermatologic Conditions in Skin of Color: Part I. Special Considerations for Common Skin Disorders. American Family Physician (2013).
GUENIN E. & al. Tolerability of tretinoin lotion 0.05% for moderate to severe acne vulgaris: a post hoc analysis in a black population. Cutis (2020).
HARRIS S. & al. Novel Polymeric Tazarotene 0.045% Lotion for Moderate-to-Severe Acne: Pooled Phase 3 Analysis by Race/Ethnicity. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (2020).
GUENIN E. & al. Effects of Topical Retinoids on Acne and Post-inflammatory Hyperpigmentation in Patients with Skin of Color: A Clinical Review and Implications for Practice. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology (2021).
GOODERHAM M. & al. Dermatology: how to manage acne in skin of colour. Drugs in Context (2022).
LANGTON A. & al. Retinoids in the treatment of photoageing: A histological study of topical retinoid efficacy in black skin. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology (2024).
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