Wrinkles and fine lines: how to diminish them?

As we age, numerous factors impact the various tissues, resulting in a less smooth, more fragile appearance. Cellular renewal slows down, which reduces the skin's tone and radiant appearance. The sebaceous glands also become less active, leading to skin dryness and a decrease in barrier function. Consequently, the epidermis becomes more vulnerable and sensitive.

Collagen and elastin, present in the dermis to support the skin and provide it with elasticity, begin to decrease from the age of 25 - 30 years.

• The production of elastin by fibroblasts ceases at puberty. Even though elastin proteins are resilient and difficult to degrade, certain enzymes known as elastases, also secreted by fibroblasts, are capable of cleaving them and making them less effective. The skin then loses its elasticity and wrinkles become more pronounced.

• As the years pass, collagen synthesis slows down. This loss can begin around the age of 25 and the body can lose approximately 1% of collagen per year, and gradually up to 25% per year. Thus, by the age of 80, we have lost 75% of collagen compared to young adults. Moreover, over the years, collagen fibres become rigid, fragmented and disorganised.

Additionally, there is a decrease in the stock of hyaluronic acid, a sugar naturally present in the skin that ensures its hydration, by 50% at the age of 50. Consequently, the skin becomes less plump and less hydrated.

It is the accumulation of these skin weaknesses that creates folds on the surface of the skin, known as wrinkles and fine lines.

• A prolonged and repeated exposure to the sun impacts the ageing of skin cells, just as tobacco consumption and pollution do. Fine lines are the first consequences;

• The stress and the lack of sleep can also contribute to skin ageing;

• The lack of hydration, it is recommended to drink 1.5 L per day, which is approximately 8 glasses of water.

The answer appears to lie, quite logically, in a healthy lifestyle:

• Maintaining a balanced diet;

• Do not smoke;

• Regularly drink water to hydrate yourself (minimum 1.5 L per day);

• Engaging in regular physical activity is also recommended to promote blood circulation;

• Avoid sun exposure or at least always protect the skin with an SPF care product suitable for one's phototype;

• Finally, quality sleep proves to be very important in the process of cellular recovery.

We also recommend that you hydrate daily with treatments suitable for your skin type. You can also use targeted treatments for areas that need attention such as the eye contour or lips.

There are also cosmetic active ingredients available to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines:

• Thehyaluronic acid, due to its hydrating action, plumps and saturates the skin with water. The skin then regains its suppleness.

• The antioxidant action of the vitamin C can be beneficial in combating skin ageing. It helps to neutralise free radicals, thereby boosting the activity of skin cells.

• Theglycolic acid or thelactic acid (A.H.A.) help to remove dead skin cells. Therefore, they stimulate cellular renewal.

• The retinol is also well-known for reducing the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines by stimulating the production of collagen and elastin, two structural proteins. As a reminder, the levels of these two components tend to decrease with age.

• KANG S. & al. Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol). Archives of Dermatology (2007).