This is an extract from the jujube tree. It is a plant-based ingredient renowned for its fungicidal and bactericidal actions, beneficial against dandruff. Let's focus on this active ingredient and its benefits.
What is "Zizyphus Joazeiro Bark Extract" and what is its utility?
- An overview of Jujube extract, in brief
- The virtues of jujube extract
- In which skincare products can one find jujube bark extract?
An overview of Jujube extract, in brief.
The Zizyphus Joazeiro or jujube tree of Brazil belongs to the Rhamnaceae family. Native to the northeast of Brazil, it now grows in Paraguay and Bolivia and is cultivated in China. The jujube is a bushy plant that can reach a height of 16 to 39 feet and has thorny branches. Its fruits are sweet and edible. In fact, they are known as Chinese dates and are widely consumed as healthy treats in China and India. While the fruits of the jujube tree are edible, it is also exploited for its bark.
Indeed, Zizyphus Joazeiro Bark Extract is none other than the INCI name for the extract of jujube bark, an active ingredient rich in saponins and vitamins. Among other things, it contains ursolic acid and betulinic acid, molecules known for their actions against bacteria and inflammation.
The extraction of this botanical active ingredient takes place in a mixture of water and propanediol, followed by clarification and decontamination through filtration. From an organoleptic perspective, the jujube extract is a liquid of amber to dark amber colour, with a distinctive scent.
The virtues of jujube extract.
The active molecules of the jujube extract target different areas within the scalp, hair fibre, and skin. Therefore, this ingredient is used to:
They are generally linked to an inflammatory response caused by the proliferation of the Malassezia fungus. These reactions are also promoted by the sensitivity of the scalp following the use of intolerable hair care products and skin conditions such as eczema and psoriasis. The molecules present in the extract of jujube bark act in a targeted way on these causes of dandruff. Indeed, betulinic acid and ursolic acid have excellent anti-inflammatory properties. It has been observed that the saponins contained in the jujube bark extract cleanse the scalp and hair of impurities and flakes by inhibiting sebum production and slowing down the production of 5-lipoxygenase (5-LOX), responsible for triggering itching.
A study tested a shampoo containing 1% jujube bark extract on volunteers with dandruff. A second group used a shampoo without the extract as a control. Those in the Jujube group noticed a decrease in dandruff within 72 hours of using the shampoo and 37% less dandruff after six days.
This virtue arises from the fact that jujube extract inhibits the production of histamine. This amino acid is produced in response to an inflammatory reaction associated with scalp irritation.
Cleanse the skin, hair and scalp.
Saponins also possess foaming properties, making them effective cleansing agents. The extract of jujube bark thus helps to unclog the scalp and pores to balance the production of sebum. Thoroughly cleansed, the skin and hair regain their softness.
Preventing oxidation reactions.
The bark extract contains jujubosides, a type of saponin that provides intense antioxidant protection while strengthening and revitalising the scalp. It's no coincidence that this tree is considered one of the easiest to cultivate and keep healthy: it indeed tolerates all weather conditions, from drought to torrential rain. One of the reasons could be these saponins, creating a kind of armour against all conditions that attempt to damage it.
In which skincare products can one find jujube bark extract?
Thejujube bark extract is primarily used in hair care where it acts as a soothing agent and fights against dandruff. Therefore, it is common in shampoos and conditioners, as well as hair serums. Less common in skin care, it remains present in some exfoliating creams.
This botanical active ingredient is found in the anti-dandruff shampoo by Typology. This formula combines jujube extract, piroctone olamine, and essential oils (Atlas cedar and clary sage) to inhibit the formation of dandruff and soothe itching. It has the added benefit of combating both dry dandruff and oily dandruff. It is also designed to stimulate hair growth.
ADAKANI M. M. & al. Jujube (Ziziphus jujuba Mill. (Rhamnaceae)): a review on its pharmacological properties and phytochemistry. Traditional Medicine Research (2022).