What is Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate and what is its purpose?

Hydroxypinacolone retinoate stands out due to its diverse effects on the skin, far beyond simple cell renewal regulation. Its action on irregular pigmentation is particularly noteworthy: according to some sources, it may help to normalise melanin distribution and improve barrier function impaired by dryness. Thus, hydroxypinacolone retinoate could contribute to a more even and luminous complexion. Another interesting fact: hydroxypinacolone retinoate is believed to be capable of limiting inflammation and reducing redness and blemishes. This effect would be enhanced when combined with retinol and papain glycospheres, which facilitate penetration while preserving barrier function.

Furthermore, several studies in vitro and clinical trials have evaluated the effectiveness of hydroxypinacolone retinoate. A human fibroblast cellular model (HFF-1) was specifically used to compare the effects of HPR and retinyl propionate (RP), another vitamin A ester. The study revealed that a 5:9 ratio (HPR:RP) was optimal for stimulating fibroblast proliferation, increasing collagen production, and improving the expression of genes related to retinoid receptors. By subjecting 33 volunteers to patch tests, researchers also demonstrated that this combination was better tolerated than retinol, as shown in the graph below.

Finally, a clinical trial was conducted with 42 women who applied a serum containing this combination for eight weeks. The observed effects were significant: a reduction in wrinkles by 8.3%, an improvement in skin smoothness by 11.9%, a decrease in transepidermal water loss by 25.7%, and a 14.5% improvement in skin elasticity. However, these positive results were obtained through visual evaluation by a dermatologist, not through concrete measurements, which somewhat limits the conclusions. Notably, these benefits were achieved without the irritating effects often associated with pure retinol, making it a promising solution for sensitive skin or those new to retinoids.

Another comparative study examined the effectiveness of 0.1% hydroxypinacolone retinoate combined with peptides, compared to a treatment with CO₂ fractional laser - a benchmark in the management of photoaging. Conducted among 71 women aged between 40 and 65, it highlighted good clinical results, with improvements of 20 to 30% for several parameters: overall wrinkles, nasolabial folds, skin texture and softness, hyperpigmentation and lifting effect. The average difference was statistically significant for each of these criteria (p < 0.05), showing comparable effectiveness, or even superior for some parameters, to that of the laser, but with better tolerance and without invasive procedure.

Hydroxypinacolone retinoate is a next-generation retinoid capable of smoothing wrinkles, enhancing skin texture, elasticity, and uniformity while remaining well-tolerated. It thus provides a strategic alternative to retinoids, particularly for individuals with sensitive skin.