Which sunscreens are excluded by Typology?

At Typology, in accordance with our formulation charter, we always ensure to respect two factors when selecting ingredients for our formulas: their impact on health and the environment.

As a result, our list of prohibited ingredients, the "Ban List", is currently one of the strictest on the market. We strive to exclude from our formulas many ingredients that may pose a risk to human health or the environment. This applies to active ingredients, solvents, preservatives, surfactants, and UV filters. To date, 28 sunscreen filters are authorised by European Regulation No. 1223/2009 governing the use of cosmetics. However, as a precautionary measure for our consumers and the environment, we exclude some from our formulations:

• The benzophenone-1 (INCI: Benzophenone-1) : Benzophenone-1 is a sun filter primarily found in nail varnishes, which protects against UVA rays. It is suspected of acting as an endocrine disruptor and poses an allergenic and irritant risk. Furthermore, benzophenone-1 is suspected of being toxic to aquatic environments.

• The benzophenone-2 (INCI: Benzophenone-2) : Benzophenone-2 is a broad-spectrum sunscreen that is seldom used due to suspicions that it may disrupt the endocrine system and cause irritations and allergic reactions. This UV filter also has suspected aquatic ecotoxicity.

• The benzophenone-3 (INCI: Benzophenone-3) : Benzophenone-3, also known as oxybenzone, is a sunscreen filter whose use in cosmetics is authorised up to 6% in the European Union and the United States. However, it is suspected to be an endocrine disruptor and potentially carcinogenic, and studies have proven it to be an irritant and a photo-allergen. Benzophenone-3 also poses a risk to the environment, specifically to aquatic habitats.

• The benzophenone-4 (INCI: Benzophenone-4) : Benzophenone-4 is a sun filter that protects against UVA and UVB rays, authorised up to 5% in Europe and 10% in the United States. However, it carries the same risks as benzophenone-1 and benzophenone-2.

• The benzophenone-5 (INCI: Benzophenone-5) : Permitted in the European Union but not in the United States, benzophenone-5 is a sunscreen filter suspected of acting as an endocrine disruptor. Moreover, it is a potential allergen and irritant.

• The benzyl salicylate (INCI: Benzyl Salicylate) : This UV filter is among the 80 allergens identified by the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) and listed in the European Regulation. In addition to its allergenic nature, it is suspected of disrupting the hormonal system.

• The butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (INCI: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane) : Also known as avobenzone, this UVA sunscreen filter is permitted up to 5% in Europe compared to 3% in the United States. However, it poses several potential health (suspected endocrine disruptor, suspected percutaneous penetration, toxic to the body) and environmental issues (potential aquatic ecotoxicity, potential PBT (Persistent, Bioaccumulative and Toxic)).

• The camphor benzalkonium methosulfate (INCI: Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate) : This is a sun filter authorised up to 5% in the European Union but prohibited in the United States. It does not present at first glance any risks to the environment but is a potential skin irritant.

• The ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA (INCI: Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA) : Padimate-O, or Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA, is a UVB sunscreen filter permitted up to 8% in Europe and the United States. We do not use it in our products as it is suspected to be an endocrine disruptor, mutagenic, carcinogenic, allergenic, and irritating.

• The ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (INCI: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate) : Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, also known as octinoxate, is a UVB sunscreen filter approved up to 10% in the European Union and 7.5% in the United States. In addition to potentially destabilising aquatic environments, it is suspected of acting as an endocrine disruptor and being capable of penetrating the skin barrier.

• The ethylhexyl salicylate (INCI: Ethylhexyl Salicylate) : Permitted up to 5% in Europe and the United States, this UVB sunscreen filter is a potential endocrine disruptor and irritant and is suspected to be toxic to aquatic environments.

• The homosalate (INCI: Homosalate) : Homosalate is a UVB sunscreen filter, the use of which is limited to 15% in European care products and 7.34% in the United States. In addition to being an atmospheric pollutant and toxic to aquatic environments, it is suspected of acting as an endocrine disruptor and a mutagen, and of being able to penetrate the skin barrier.

• The amiloxate (INCI: Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate) : Permitted up to 10% in the European Union but banned in the United States, Amiloxate is a UVB sunscreen filter that is suspected to act as an endocrine disruptor and to be toxic to the aquatic environment.

• The 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (INCI: 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor) : The 4-methylbenzylidene camphor is a UVB sunscreen filter permitted up to 4% in care products in Europe. We exclude it from our formulas as it is suspected to be an endocrine disruptor, to be genotoxic, and to have the ability to penetrate the skin barrier.

• The methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (INCI: Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol) : Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol is a sunscreen filter suspected of acting as an endocrine disruptor and being an allergen and an irritant. Furthermore, this substance is bioaccumulative, non-biodegradable, and exhibits aquatic ecotoxicity.

• The octocrylene (INCI: Octocrylene) : Octocrylene is a UVB sunscreen filter permitted up to 10% in the European Union and the United States. However, it is a persistent, bioaccumulative, and poorly biodegradable molecule and an atmospheric pollutant. Moreover, octocrylene is a suspected endocrine disruptor, a suspected carcinogen, a suspected mutagen, and a potential allergen that may be able to cross the skin barrier.

• The polysilicone-15 (INCI: Polysilicone-15) : Prohibited in the United States but present up to 10% in European sunscreens, polysilicone-15 is a potentially skin-penetrating UVB sunscreen filter that exhibits aquatic ecotoxicity.

At Typology, we also exclude sunscreens in the form of nanoparticles, as a precautionary measure. Indeed, some studies suggest that these particles could penetrate the skin barrier and accumulate in the body. Furthermore, other research has highlighted their potential toxicity to phytoplankton, organisms at the base of the aquatic food chain.

Refer to the table below for a list of UV filters that we have chosen not to use at Typology.

• Règlement (CE) n°1223/2009 du Parlement Européen et du Conseil.

• U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). Over-the-Counter Monograph M020: Sunscreen Drug Products for Over-the-Counter Human Use (2021).

• PADOIS K. & al. Commonly used UV filter toxicity on biological functions: review of last decade studies. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2012).

• SCHWACK W. & al. Photoprotection in changing times – UV filter efficacy and safety, sensitization processes and regulatory aspects. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2014).

• LEUNG K. S.-Y. & al. Risks of organic UV filters: a review of environmental and human health concern studies. Science of The Total Environment (2021).

• ALMEIDA I. F. & al. UV Filters: Challenges and Prospects. Pharmaceuticals (2022).