What are the benefits of bisabolol for the skin?

Bisabolol is an ideal active ingredient for dehydrated skin. Indeed, studies have shown that it is capable of acting as a humectant to retain water within the epidermis and limit insensible water loss (IWL). In doing so, bisabolol contributes to the maintenance of the skin barrier and the protection of the skin. Finally, it helps to prevent dehydration fine lines, the small superficial streaks that form when the hydrolipidic film or the skin barrier is weakened.

Bisabolol can also be used to soothe skin inflammation and reduce sensations of itching. Indeed, bisabolol is capable of acting at various levels within skin cells and exerting an anti-inflammatory activity. It can notably inhibit the action of several pro-inflammatory cytokines, such as interleukin-1β, interleukin-6 (IL-1β and IL-6) and tumour necrosis factor (TNF-α). Furthermore, bisabolol downregulates the activity of cyclooxygenase 2 (COX-2), an enzyme catalysing the conversion of arachidonic acid into prostaglandin H2. Prostaglandins are compounds involved in inflammatory processes such as redness and itching.

Bisabolol also possesses antioxidant properties, making it a good ally in protecting the skin from oxidative stress. Indeed, due to the double bonds in its chemical structure, it can neutralise free radicals through an electron donation. Free radicals are reactive species generated after exposure to the sun's UV rays, but are also present in pollution or tobacco. Free radicals act by damaging skin cells, their proteins, and their DNA. It is therefore important to regulate their production with a sufficient intake of antioxidants.

Furthermore, bisabolol enhances the activity of several antioxidant enzymes such as superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase (CAT), which are essential for the elimination of free radicals. Indeed, SOD catalyses the dismutation of superoxide anions O2- into oxygen O2 and hydrogen peroxide H2O2. Catalase, on the other hand, ensures the dismutation of hydrogen peroxide into water and oxygen.

Bisabolol aids in accelerating the wound healing process. Therefore, if you have a minor skin cut or acne scars, a bisabolol-based treatment can prove beneficial. Scientific studies have shown that this active ingredient is capable of acting on the fibroblast growth factor, and increasing its activity. This allows for the intensification of collagen and elastin secretion by the fibroblasts, which is essential for the formation of scar tissue. It has also been demonstrated that bisabolol can promote the multiplication and migration of fibroblasts towards the wound area.

Over time, the skin slackens and wrinkles appear, at the corners of the eyes, around the lips, on the forehead... This natural phenomenon is due to multiple factors, both external and internal, and particularly to the gradual decrease in synthesis of collagen and elastin by fibroblasts from our twenties. These proteins of the extracellular matrix play a predominant role in the suppleness and elasticity of the skin.

Indeed, bisabolol has a protective effect on collagen. In fact, some studies suggest that this active ingredient is capable ofinhibiting collagenase, the enzyme responsible for breaking down the peptide bonds of collagen. Once these bonds are broken, the collagen is degraded. The action of bisabolol on collagenase helps to prevent this phenomenon and contributes to skin firmness.

Note : While the inhibitory effect of bisabolol has been demonstrated in research studies, no study to date has shown that this active ingredient has an effect on skin ageing. Therefore, caution is advised.

An antimicrobial activity of bisabolol has been observed against certain resistant bacterial strains such as Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus and Candida albicans. Although the exact mechanisms by which bisabolol acts are not yet fully identified, several hypotheses have been put forward. The first is that bisabolol interacts with the cell membranes of bacteria and disrupts their fluidity, thereby causing a leakage of essential cellular components and the death of the bacteria.

Another possibility is that bisabolol interferes with the intracellular signalling pathways of bacteria. Certain vital processes for bacteria then become dysfunctional, which could potentially cause their death. Regardless, bisabolol is recognised for its antibacterial properties and can help combat certain skin disorders, such as acne.

Bisabolol can, to some extent, help to reduce pigmentation spots. Whether they are the result of a lifetime in the sun or a consequence of acne, brown spots are often deemed unsightly and disrupt the uniformity of the complexion. A study examined the effect on skin whiteness of a cream containing 0.5% bisabolol. For eight weeks, 28 willing Korean women applied this treatment daily. At the end of this period, researchers measured an average decrease in skin pigmentation of 9% using a spectrophotometer.

Scientists have also investigated the mechanism of action of bisabolol and discovered that this active ingredient blocks the phosphorylation of the CREB protein. This chemical reaction activates the transcription factor associated with microphthalmia (MITF). This, in turn, triggers a cascade of reactions leading to the development and differentiation of melanocytes, the cells that synthesise melanin. As a reminder, melanin is the brown pigment that colours the skin. By acting upstream in this way, bisabolol has a inhibitory effect on melanogenesis.

• PARK D. & al. Whitening effect of alpha-bisabolol in Asian women subjects. International journal of cosmetic science (2010).

• OJHA S. & al. Health Benefits, Pharmacological Effects, Molecular Mechanisms, and Therapeutic Potential of α-Bisabolol. Nutrients (2022).