The characteristics of the VE(+) skin profile.

Cutaneous ageing: VISIBLE

Oxidation factors: EXPOSED

Sebum production: HIGH (+)

In the VE(+) profile, the letter "V" refers to signs of ageing that have already set in and are easily noticeable on the skin’s surface. These marks result from a series of progressive changes affecting the epidermis, the dermis and the supporting structures. Wrinkles become visible at rest, expression lines deepen around the eyes, forehead or lips, and skin tone uniformity declines. Physiologically, the epidermis slows its rate of cell renewal, which disrupts the organisation of corneocytes and weakens the barrier function. This loss of cohesion leads to skin that is more reactive and less able to retain water, a factor that makes fine lines even more apparent. At the same time, melanocytes lose density and functional regularity: some areas produce more pigment, others less, hence the appearance of brown spots and an uneven complexion.

In the dermis, the activity of fibroblasts, which produce the collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, slows down. The collagen network then loses its density and alignment, the elastin fibres become shorter and less organised, and hyaluronic acid becomes scarcer, thereby impairing the skin’s suppleness. Finally, the skin’s microcirculation declines with age, reducing the delivery of nutrients and oxygen to the different layers of the skin. This phenomenon contributes to the duller complexion often observed in this profile, as well as to a less effective tissue repair.

The visible signs of ageing in VE(+) skin are not confined to the surface: they result from a series of closely interconnected biological mechanisms that gradually modify the structure of the skin.

In the VE(+) profile, the letter "E" indicates that the skin is regularly exposed to sources of oxidative stress. This term encompasses all the assaults capable of generating an excess of free radicals: UV rays, urban pollution, smoking, chronic stress, lack of sleep... These factors are not specific to this profile, but in the case of VE(+) skin, their impact is often more pronounced because they add to a complexion already prone to visible ageing.

Physiologically, oxidative stress corresponds to an imbalance between the amount of free radicals formed and the skin’s ability to neutralise them through its internal antioxidant systems (vitamin E, glutathione peroxidase, superoxide dismutase…).

In excess, free radicals attack membrane lipids, structural proteins (collagen, elastin…) and even cellular DNA, contributing to the appearance of ageing signs. Moreover, when subjected to oxidative stress, keratinocytes, the predominant cells of the epidermis, produce increased inflammatory signals that sustain a state of chronic tissue stress. Oxidative stress also alters the distribution of melanin. Under the effect of UV rays and free radicals, melanin synthesis becomes irregular, favouring the appearance of solar lentigines and an uneven complexion, which overlay the pigmentary disorders due to intrinsic ageing.

Thus, the letter “E” signifies cumulative exposure to oxidative factors that accelerate the overall process of skin ageing.

The “+” symbol indicates that the skin has a notable sebaceous activity. Sebum, naturally produced by the sebaceous glands located in the dermis, combines with sweat to form the hydrolipidic film, this thin protective layer that limits water evaporation and forms the first barrier against external aggressors. In VE(+) skin, this lipid protection is present in sufficient or even excessive quantities, which gives the skin a more lustrous appearance, especially in the T-zone (forehead, nose, chin). This sebaceous gland hyperactivity is based on various mechanisms but is mainly under hormonal control. Indeed, skin that produces a lot of sebum often has high circulating levels of androgens, particularly dihydrotestosterone, and an increased sensitivity to these hormones.

VE(+) skin does not lack natural protection. However, this abundance of sebum does not necessarily imply balance. When produced in excess, sebum can build up in the pores, mix with dead cells and favour a comedogenic environment. This results in uneven skin texture, enlarged pores and an increased risk of blemishes, even in adulthood. Moreover, this situation can be further exacerbated by ageing: over time, the pores tend to dilate under the influence of dermal laxity, making the skin’s surface appear less smooth.

The “+” symbol denotes skin naturally abundant in lipids but prone to imbalances: enlarged pores, excessive shine, occasional blemishes and textural irregularities.

VE(+) skin requires a regimen that preserves its lipid equilibrium while addressing its two other major vulnerabilities: the presence of visible signs of ageing and significant exposure to oxidative stress.

In the morning, a skincare routine should give the skin a sensation of freshness and antioxidant protection. A gentle cleanse first removes excess sebum accumulated overnight. Next come antioxidant ingredients, essential for neutralising free radicals, particularly abundant in “E” profiles. The vitamin C, for example, enhances skin tone uniformity and supports collagen synthesis, while the vitamin E limits sebum oxidation, a process that contributes to congestion and pore dilation. You can then apply a lightweight moisturiser designed for oily skin, to provide hydration without weighing it down. Finally, the sun protection is essential: it slows wrinkle formation, reduces oxidative stress and prevents the darkening of spots caused by UV exposure.

In the evening, everything begins with a cleanse, often in two steps, to effectively remove sunscreens, make-up, sebum and pollution particles. You can then apply a serum, containing for example retinoids, active ingredients that are particularly beneficial for VE(+) profiles as they accelerate epidermal turnover, stimulate collagen synthesis and help to refine skin texture, making pores less noticeable. Once or twice a week, don’t forget to exfoliate your skin, to limit the formation of comedones and support cell renewal. Finally, as the last step of your evening routine, apply a lightweight hydrating emulsion.