Which sunscreens are used by Typology?

Sun protection is a fundamental public health issue. By filtering ultraviolet rays, sun care products help to prevent sunburn, skin cancers and photoaging. In Europe, cosmetic regulations strictly govern the use of UV filters and only authorise 28, all evaluated for their effectiveness and safety. However, some authorised molecules raise questions. Their potential for endocrine disruption, their possible carcinogenic or mutagenic nature, or their impact on aquatic ecosystems, are subject to regular assessments, but not always conclusive.

At Typology, we have chosen to go further and only use UV filters that are well-documented, both in terms of human safety and ecotoxicology.

For reference, we distinguish two types of sunscreen filters : chemical, or organic filters, and physical, or mineral filters. The former are complex organic molecules, often consisting of aromatic rings conjugated to carbonyl groups. Their function relies solely on the absorption of UV rays, which they then convert into heat harmless to the skin. The latter are inorganic compounds that form a screen on the skin's surface. This film plays a dual role: it reflects a small portion of UV rays (about 5%) and absorbs the majority (about 95%), which it then converts into heat. Here are the organic filters present in Typology's sun care products:

• Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine.

  The Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, also known as Bemotrizinol, is a lipophilic UV filter known for its high photostability and broad-spectrum nature, meaning its absorption capacity covers the entire UVB and UVA range, from 280 nm to 400 nm. Prohibited in the United States, this UV filter can be used to formulate skincare products in the European Union with a maximum concentration of 10%.

• Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate.

  The Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate is a synthetic sun protection agent from the benzophenone family. It absorbs, reflects, and disperses UVA rays within a wavelength range of 320 nm to 400 nm, providing maximum protection at 354 nm. This UV filter is also prohibited in the United States, but allowed in Europe up to 10%.

• Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone.

  The Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, or iscotrizinol, is a lipophilic sunscreen filter that protects against UVB and a portion of UVA rays (315-340 nm). It is highly stable and water-resistant, making it ideal for outdoor activities. European regulations permit its use up to 10%, while it is not possible to use it in the United States.

• Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate.

  Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate is an effective water-soluble sun filter against UVA rays, particularly UVA II (315-340 nm). It has an absorbance peak at 335 nm. The maximum concentration allowed in Europe is 10%, while this UV filter is not present in products in the United States.

• Ethylhexyl Triazone.

  The Ethylhexyl Triazone, or octyl triazone, is one of the most effective organic filters for absorbing UVB rays, with a peak absorption at 314 nm. European cosmetic regulations allow its use in sun care products up to a limit of 5%, but it is excluded from American products.

• Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid.

  Also known as ensulizole, the Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid is a water-soluble filter particularly effective against UVB rays. It is often used in lightweight formulations, intended for combination to oily skin types. The use of ensulizole as a sunscreen filter is permitted up to a concentration of 4% in the United States and 8% in the European Union.

Most of the time, a sun protection product combines filters to cover the entire solar spectrum. Without nanoparticles, our sun care products combine mineral filters with chemical filters for reasons of application comfort and texture.

• Titanium dioxide.

  Titanium dioxide is an inorganic mineral filter that primarily functions by reflecting and scattering UV rays, while also absorbing a portion of UVB and short UVA rays. It is particularly valued for its high photostability and low potential for skin irritation, making it a preferred filter for sensitive skin. In the European Union and the United States, titanium dioxide is permitted up to 25% in sun care products. When used in the form of nanoparticles, this must be explicitly stated in the INCI list with the indication [nano]. At Typology, we only use non-nanometric titanium dioxide and generally exclude nanoparticles from our care products, both as a precautionary principle for human health and for environmental reasons.

• Zinc oxide.

  Similar to titanium dioxide, zinc oxide is a mineral filter that protects against the entire spectrum of UV radiation. It also works by reflection and absorption, and its lack of chemical reactivity makes it suitable for sensitive skin. In both Europe and the United States, its use in sun care products is limited to 25%, but only in non-nanometric form. The use of zinc oxide nanoparticles is prohibited in spray products due to the risks associated with inhalation, but is possible in other treatments. At our company, we only use non-nanometric zinc oxide.

Refer to the table below for a list of UV filters that we have chosen to use at Typology to ensure adequate coverage of the UVA and UVB range and provide broad-spectrum protection.

• Règlement (CE) n°1223/2009 du Parlement Européen et du Conseil.

• European Chemicals Agency. Diéthylhexyl Butamido Triazone.

• Scientific Committee on Consumer Products (SCCP). Opinion on phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid and its salts (2006).

• Scientific Committee on Consumer Products (SCCP). Opinion on Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (2008).

• SCHWACK W. & al. Photoprotection in changing times – UV filter efficacy and safety, sensitization processes and regulatory aspects. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2014).

• SCHNEIDER S. L. & al. A review of inorganic UV filters zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. Photodermatology, Photoimmunology and Photomedicine (2018).

• ALMEIDA I. F. & al. UV Filters: Challenges and Prospects. Pharmaceuticals (2022).