Acne is a very common skin issue affecting many people, from adolescence through to adulthood. While this dermatosis is primarily found in individuals with oily skin, it can affect all skin types. It is sometimes said that vitamin E can alleviate acne, but did you know it can also serve as an indicator of its severity? Find more explanations in this article.
Vitamin E, a marker of acne severity.
Published on April 16, 2024, by Pauline, Chemical Engineer — 6 min of reading
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Vitamin E and acne: what is the connection?
Acne is the primary reason for dermatological consultations. Affecting 80% of teenagers and young adults, it is characterised by the presence of red or white spots on the face, neck, back or chest. While acne is often associated with hyperseborrhoea, meaning an overproduction of sebum, it can also result from dyseborrhoea. Dyseborrhoea is a change in the composition and quality of the sebum, found almost exclusively in patients suffering from acne. On average, in an adult without skin problems, sebum is normally composed of 57.5% triglycerides, 26% wax esters, 12% squalene, 3% cholesterol esters, 1.5% cholesterol, and a very small amount of vitamin E.
Several studies have demonstrated that the plasma concentration of vitamin E is lower in acne patients compared to individuals without this skin condition. One such study was conducted by KALKAN and his team in 2013. On average, the 94 acne patients had a plasma concentration of vitamin E of 7.88 mg/L ± 3.00, compared to 11.06 mg/L ± 3.08 in the 46 healthy individuals. Furthermore, it has been suggested that the plasma concentration of vitamin E is correlated with the severity of acne. This hypothesis has been notably confirmed by the results obtained by ABDUL-RAZZAK and his team in 2006, as presented in the table below.
| Healthy Individuals (100) | Patients with mild acne (30) | Patients with moderate acne (45) | Patients with severe acne (25) | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Plasma concentration of vitamin E (mg/L) | 5.9 ± 1.4 | 5.9 ± 1.7 | 5.7 ± 2.3 | 4.1 ± 1.4 |
These results can be explained by the antioxidant effects of Vitamin E. Indeed, this active ingredient protects sebum from oxidative stress and, through a donation of hydrogen, inhibits the oxidation of squalene by free radicals, resulting in the formation of squalene peroxide. This is a comedogenic compound, meaning it promotes the occurrence of comedones. Furthermore, squalene peroxide stimulates the proliferation of HaCaT keratinocytes, a factor that exacerbates acne. Indeed, hyperkeratinisation can lead to an accumulation of dead cells on the skin's surface, a phenomenon that can block pores. Finally, in vitro studies have shown that squalene peroxide is involved in various inflammatory processes. Acne is intrinsically linked to these processes and results from the inflammation of the hair follicle.
Vitamin E can thus be considered as a marker of acne severity: individuals suffering from this dermatosis present with plasma concentrations of this active ingredient that are lower.
Vitamin E supplementation to improve acne?
If we consider the vitamin E as a marker of acne severity, it would seem logical that supplementation with this active ingredient could improve the skin's condition. Rarely studied on its own, several scientists have taken an interest in its combination with other active ingredients. These studies, detailed below, have shown encouraging results for people suffering from acne. However, it is not possible to attribute these entirely to the action of vitamin E, nor to quantify this latter.
| Study | Combination of Active Ingredients | Number of patients | Duration of the Study | Results |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| MICHAËLSSON & EDQVIST (1984) | Vitamin E, Selenium | 89 | 3 months | Significant reduction in the number of comedones and inflammatory lesions |
| KIMBERLY CO & others. (2017) | Vitamin E, lactoferrin, zinc | 168 | 3 months | Significant reduction in the number of comedones, inflammatory lesions, and sebum production |
| POTENZA & al. (2018) | Vitamin E, biotin, probiotic, zinc, nicotinamide | Not disclosed | 3 months | Significant reduction in the number of comedones and inflammatory lesions |
Sources
MICHAËLSSON G. & EDQVIST L. Erythrocyte glutathione peroxidase activity in acne vulgaris and the effect of selenium and vitamin E treatment. Acta Dermato-venereologica (1984).
ABDUL-RAZZAK K. & et al. Does the plasma level of vitamins A and E influence acne condition?Clinical and Experimental Dermatology (2006).
PICARDO M. & al. Lipid Mediators in Skin Inflammation: Updates and Current Perspectives. Mediators of Inflammation (2010).
KALKAN G. & al. Assessment of serum vitamins A and E and zinc levels in relation to the severity of acne vulgaris. Cutaneous and Ocular Toxicology (2013).
KIMBERLY CO J. & al. A randomised, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial to ascertain the effectiveness and safety of lactoferrin combined with vitamin E and zinc as an oral treatment for mild to moderate acne vulgaris. International Journal of Dermatology (2017).
POTENZA T. & al. Innovative combination for gender-specific acne treatment: a new stride towards personalised therapy. Italian Journal of Dermatology and Venereology (2018).
CHAPAS A. & al. Evaluating Common Ingredients Found in Dietary Acne Supplements: An Evidence-Based Review. The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology (2024).
